Discover SCHIAPARELLI Fall Winter 2022.23 Collection, that combines softness and severity, the achingly tender and the razor sharp, presented with a lookbook, during the ongoing Paris Fashion Week. The collection was inspired by the brand’s codes and couture elements, and it brings both discipline and luxury. For the season, designer Daniel Roseberry explores a contemporary version of Edward Scissorhand. The collection features only black, bone white, and Schiaparelli gold colors. The brand search for the perfection born from rigor with pieces such as bias-cut satin slip dress with a plisse soleil bust, a satin mini dress with hammered gold piercings and black leather lacing, and a recreation of Elsa Schiaparelli’s first lambs wool jacquard trompe l’oeil sweaters from 1927 – recreated here row by row. The designer captured the lookbook featuring models Dara Allen, Iman Kaumann, Maggie Maurer, Mila van Eeten, and Rouguy Faye. In charge of styling was Marie Chaix, with casting direction from Piergiorgio Del Moro. Beauty is work of hair stylist Cyndia Harvey, makeup artist Fara Homidi, and manicurist Cam Tran.
I thought a lot about what was elemental for this collection, and I meant that in two ways— not only what was fundamental, but what comprised the basic lexicon of the Schiaparelli wardrobe. And so, while Planet Schiaparelli is a place of discipline, it’s also a place of luxury. Here you have a snow-white shearling coat, dropping past the ankle (complete with a trompe l’oeil corset seamed into the bust), shearling pumps, a faux ermine embroidered wrap top, a floor-sweeping black leather coatdress with articulated anatomical parts, and our signature Secret Bag, reimagined in crocodile, Schiaparelli gold, and embroidered drawings of the season. In fact, the now-iconic codes of the house have been reimagined—and reinforced— throughout. The Dali-era 3-D bones motif now appears as an intarsia in a simple bateau pencil dress. My renderings of the dove, the padlock, human anatomy itself— have been scanned and embroidered in matte cotton yarn onto denim (the most Parisian of houses’ nod to America). A leather scrolled “S” from the archives has been directly reproduced onto a classic double-breasted coat in jet black wool crepe. – Daniel Roseberry, creative director of Schiaparelli
