In their ninth collection titled “APHORISM,” Who Decides War, led by the duo Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore, goes on a journey from the streets of New York City to the avenues of Paris. This collection celebrates longevity, a theme that is explored through the careful curation and elevation of materials, alongside the brand’s denim.
Who Decides War has introduced different constructs season after season, which have become the brand’s defining ‘main characters.’ In “APHORISM,” these familiar silhouettes are reimagined through new techniques and presentation, moving away from graphic motifs towards a more cut-and-sew approach, particularly evident in the textured arch and window placements that have become a staple in the brand’s aesthetic narrative. Paying homage to their American origins, Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore include references from Americana lore into “APHORISM.”
This season, the co-founders have placed a pronounced emphasis on sustainability, and their commitment to crafting pieces with purpose and integrity. This approach is a conscious effort to counteract the wastefulness often seen in the fashion industry, where the drive to fill a visual void leads to unnecessary production.
The development process for “APHORISM” involved a series of labor-intensive techniques to achieve the desired aesthetic and tactile qualities. Garments underwent a rigorous process of being cut, sewn, distressed, dyed, bleached, and overdyed, with a significant focus on embroidery, a consistent part of Who Decides War’s collections. As noted about the brand’s dedication to quality, in-house fabrics were developed over extensive periods, with some materials requiring up to forty-eight hours to produce just two yards.
Discover the whole collection in the Gallery: