Fashion brand Alainpaul unveiled its Fall Winter 2024 collection that blends storytelling and fashion, where the world of ballet meets the cutting-edge of design. Returning to the prestigious Théâtre du Châtelet, Paul continues to develop his debut theme of ballet-centric dressmaking, bringing an evolved narrative that explores into the discipline’s aesthetic and emotional depths. This sophomore collection is a proof of the brand’s commitment to minimal deconstruction and austere elegance, set against a backdrop of trans-seasonal and genre-defying approaches to dressing.
FALL WINTER 2024.25 WOMENSWEAR
At the core of Alainpaul’s latest offering is the reinterpretation of the dancer’s rehearsal attire, serving as the foundational elements of the collection. The justaucorps, typically worn during ballet practice, is reimagined in fabrics such as lycra and velvet and is presented in a palette of black, white, and pink. These pieces, characterized by their high or scooped necklines and defined shoulder lines, transition fluidly into more complex forms, including peplum tops and elongated dresses, showcasing the brand’s commitment to evolving traditional silhouettes.
Integral to the collection is the use of crin in crafting high-waisted warm-up trousers, a nod to the physicality of ballet that carries through the theme of motion unraveling across the garments. This concept is further emphasized by the employment of cupro, a regenerated fabric that has become a signature material for the brand.
Tailoring plays a significant role in the Alainpaul Fall Winter 2024 collection, with elongated jackets and coats that draw from the clavicular silhouette prominent in ballet posture. These pieces, some featuring lavallière collars and others adorned with tailored scarves, reflect a trans-seasonal approach to design. The collection also introduces double-breasted tuxedos, detailed with micro-sequins or extended into floor-length versions, worn over abstracted poplin shirts, embodying a fusion of movement and structure.
The emotional intensity of Martha Graham’s 1930 dance solo, “Lamentation,” is captured through the collection’s dramatic volumes and deconstructed elements. Garments are meticulously cut to reveal the lining and create dynamic shapes, echoing the expressiveness of dance. This thematic thread extends to sporty two-piece ensembles and denim suits that suggest the fluidity and spontaneity of rehearsal wear.
Eveningwear within the collection redefines the traditional tutu, transforming it into innovative tops and magnified tulle gowns that embrace the balletic cambré movement. This intersection of dance and fashion is epitomized in a gown that merges a leotard with a plissé skirt, demonstrating Alainpaul’s ability to translate the discipline of ballet into the language of couture.
Footwear, including satin thigh-high boots and pointed ankle boots, pays homage to the aesthetics and demands of ballet, completing the collection’s homage to the art form.