Paula Canovas del Vas Fall Winter 2024

Paula Canovas del Vas presents a departure in her Fall Winter 2024 collection, drawing upon the gritty realism of our contemporary world—a significant shift from her usual themes of fantasy and escapism. This collection, the twelfth since her graduation from Central Saint Martins and the second from her Paris studio, reflects on the tumultuous geopolitical and environmental landscape of today. Revealed at Paris Fashion Week within the Spanish Cervantes Institute, it marks her third showing in the Iena exhibition space. This season’s collection, however, isn’t just on display but a part of the experience that intertwines with the raw energy of female wrestling, thanks to a unique collaboration with the Paris 13 female wrestling club NR Fight.

The presentation, choreographed by Brazilian Leonardo D’Aquino from the Berlin-based collective cie. Toula Limnaios, with art direction by Angelique Pilière of Oui Non Editions, draws a powerful parallel between the ambition seen in women’s wrestling—a field still dominated by men—and the challenges of carving out a space in the male-heavy fashion industry. This intersection of sport, culture, and fashion sets a backdrop for the collection, emphasizing the struggle against cultural homogeneity and the fight for recognition in competitive arenas.

Paula Canovas del Vas gives the collection with a vibrant nod to ’70s sportswear and school uniforms. Highlights include airbrushed Carmen Bags and Diablo Ballerinas, vegan fur denim trousers, multicolor fur ensembles complete with snoods and hats, and metallic Diablo Boots. This season also introduces new patterns and textures, such as herringbone ribbon Bonbon skirts, polo pocket tops, stripy bermudas, and a fresh take on argyle and stripe mesh prints. Utilizing deadstock mohair and merino yarns, the collection features wrecked jumpers, tulle overskirts, and necklaces that add an eerie touch, while fur helmets and furry bracelets reference wrestling attire.