John Richmond‘s Spring Summer 2025 collection made a striking impression at Milan Fashion Week, being a vivid exploration of the underground lifestyle, buzzing with raw energy and creativity. Drawing inspiration from subcultures and personal journeys, Richmond celebrates the vibrancy and chaos of discovering that what was once old is now new again. The collection’s authenticity is in the real-life experiences and social cosm of the subcultures it references, making it both nostalgic and forward-thinking.
The venue itself set the stage for the collection’s narrative, with walls covered in posters from the late 70s music scene in London, evoking iconic spots like Blitz and the Cha Cha Club. This provided a fitting homage to the Northern Soul movement, reflected in the high-waisted wide trousers, nipped-in knit tanks, and embellished bomber jackets that strutted down the runway. The collection seamlessly blended the 70s’ influence with the rebellious spirit of the 80s, capturing the essence of punk and new wave through exaggerated shoulders, DIY skirts, and kilts. The punk aesthetic, embedded in Richmond’s brand, was evident in the bleached skinhead jeans, hand-painted tattoo leather bikers, and studded denim jackets.
Richmond’s color palette for this season was dominated by black, creating a dramatic canvas for bold pops of fuchsia pinks, reds, and deep cobalt blues. These vibrant hues were juxtaposed with soft earthy neutrals and dusty ivories. The evening wear segment showcased beautifully tailored pieces with fine wools and rich satin lapels, with silver jacquard floral tattoos for a touch of luxury. Exaggerated luxury sportswear elements, including twinset track sets and oversized printed MA-1 satin nylons, added an edge to the collection.
Accessories played a crucial role in the collection’s personality, with multi-lace leather bras, dog-clipped DIY handkerchiefs, and heavy-duty platform fringe wedges. The accessories, ranging from romantic suedes to tough patent leathers, added layers of texture and character to the ensembles. Luxurious silver Cuban chains and customized embroidered heritage patches further characterized the collection’s look.
A particularly noteworthy aspect of the show was the collaboration with Peter Hook, who composed the soundtrack. Richmond’s Manchester roots were honored through bits of drum and synth tracks that layered and cut Joy Division’s music with tube sounds, orchestral takes, and gritty noise. This audio-visual homage provided a powerful atmosphere to the collection. Take a closer look at the collection in the Gallery below:
