ALAINPAUL’s Spring Summer 2025 collection, presented at the Théâtre du Châtelet, transformed the runway into a ballet-inspired laboratory of motion and design. Drawing from his deep roots in contemporary dance, Paul explored the instinctive relationship between a dancer’s body and movement, using garments to capture and express the fluid grace of ballet. The show opened with the morning light illuminating a dancer’s rehearsal class, setting the tone for a collection built on the themes of body awareness, improvisation, and the fluidity of motion.
SPRING SUMMER 2025
At the core of the collection were the fuseaux-inspired pieces—ballet tights attached to the sole with an elastic band—reinterpreted into outerwear, tailoring, shirts, and skirts. The silhouettes extended the physique of the wearer, imitating the elegance of a dancer’s elongated limbs. Asymmetrical shapes created by pulling and stretching garments to one side of the body mimicked the movements of ballet, while the clothes themselves flowed and collapsed, reflecting the freedom of motion central to the collection’s DNA.
The brand also introduced a contrasting sense of restriction through tulle tops and structured crin pieces that fixed the body beneath translucent layers, invoking the tension between freedom and fixation. Tailoring featured the designer’s signature arched shoulders and clever straps, while tailored shorts and sleeveless blazers offered a liberating counterpoint to the more structured looks.
Visually, the collection played with stark black and white compositions, drawing inspiration from Merce Cunningham’s 1991 ballet Beach Birds. The choreography’s themes of spontaneity and improvisation translated into abstract prints and embroidery that adorned tops, skirts, and dresses. The embroidered tights paid homage to Cunningham’s iconic legwork, while the airy sketches of choreography came to life in the movement of the garments.
Accessories seamlessly continued the dance narrative. Leather bags mimicked knee and elbow protectors, becoming extensions of the body, while shoes crafted from soft lambskin—like the Merce Sling-back and Merce Ballerina—were inspired by the grace of ballerinas. The standout Pina Mule, an evolution of ballet’s iconic pointe shoe, referenced the deformations of a dancer’s foot, merging aesthetics with the physical demands of dance.
In Show 3, Alain Paul reaffirmed his mastery of bridging the world of fashion and dance, creating a collection that not only dressed the body but also told a story of movement, grace, and transformation.
beautiful work from the guys! Alainpaul definitely today’s highlight from Paris fashion week! Amongst the old and tired stuff we are seeing the whole day