Xander Zhou’s SS25 show, titled ANACHRONOTALE, explores a compelling mix of historical and futuristic concepts. As part of his experimental PRO line, the collection reimagines elements of ballet de cour and commedia dell’arte, theatrical traditions that emphasize transformation through masks and costumes. Zhou brings these traditions into the present, constructing garments that combine classic forms with futuristic aesthetics. This juxtaposition offers a dynamic presentation, where traditional references to European carnivals and theatrical forms are interpreted through the lens of contemporary design.
One of the key features of the collection is the shako, a headpiece rooted in military history, which Zhou transforms into an abstract accessory with metallic finishes and modern details. This reworking of historical garments continues throughout the collection, with items like bomber jackets and trench coats being reshaped into contemporary designs with exaggerated forms. These pieces offer a new take on garments that once served functional roles in military settings but now function as high-fashion items.
Zhou’s exploration of identity and role-playing is central to the collection. The exaggerated puff sleeves and tutus evoke a sense of both elegance and futuristic abstraction, playing with scale and structure to create a new visual language. The diamond patterns associated with the Harlequin figure are another key feature, reinterpreted in bold, geometric designs that offer a fresh perspective on these historical references.
The show’s narrative engages with the idea of order and chaos, reflected in the interplay between structured, formal garments and more playful, flowing designs. This thematic tension is present throughout the collection, with militaristic details like epaulets and ceremonial sashes being pared down and abstracted, suggesting both authority and its deconstruction. The collection’s aesthetic suggests a balance between the rigidity of form and the fluidity of transformation, resulting in designs that feel both familiar and otherworldly.
Zhou’s SS25 collection extends beyond clothing into a broader narrative that explores time, identity, and transformation. His garments are not merely outfits but part of a larger exploration of historical forms, reimagined for the present day. The collection offers a space for reflection on how the past and the future interact, creating new possibilities for self-expression.
View the collection in the Gallery below:
