Glenn Martens has officially been appointed Creative Director of Maison Margiela, marking a new chapter for the avant-garde Parisian house. Confirming a report from WWD, the Belgian designer—who is also the creative force behind Diesel—will take the reins following John Galliano’s decade-long tenure, which brought the brand to new creative and commercial heights.
“I feel extremely honored to join the amazing Maison Margiela, a truly unique house that has been inspiring the world for decades. And I thank Renzo for the trust he is putting in me,” Martens shared in a statement.
Maison Margiela’s parent company, OTB Group, sees Martens as the ideal talent to carry the house forward. Renzo Rosso, chairman of OTB, emphasized his faith in the designer’s ability to build upon the brand’s Artisanal craftsmanship and experimental ethos.
“I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent, and I know what he is capable of. After Martin [Margiela], who gave life to the Maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John, who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm. Glenn, who studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts like Martin, has already shown his prowess and his vision in couture.”
Stefano Rosso, chairman of Maison Margiela, echoed this sentiment, stating that Martens joins the brand at a “key moment in its history.” With the house’s rapid expansion—including 120 global stores, 50 of which opened in the past four years—Martens will be responsible for navigating its continued growth while honoring its disruptive DNA.
Martens first made his name at Y/Project, where he served as creative director for over a decade, transforming it into one of the most conceptually daring labels in fashion. Known for his twisted constructions, exaggerated proportions, and innovative tailoring, he built a cult following before departing in 2023 amid the brand’s financial struggles.
Beyond his success at Y/Project, Diesel has flourished under Martens’ direction, with his revival of the Italian label winning over a new generation of fans. His ability to blend avant-garde experimentation with commercial appeal makes him a compelling choice to lead Maison Margiela into its next phase.
Martens’ connection to Jean Paul Gaultier also adds another layer to his fashion pedigree. After being discovered by Gaultier upon graduating from Antwerp’s Royal Academy in 2008, he went on to design a guest couture collection for Gaultier in 2022, showcasing his ability to work within the high-art realm of couture—a key component of Maison Margiela’s identity.
Succeeding John Galliano is no small feat. The British designer redefined the house’s Artisanal collection, culminating in his universally acclaimed Spring 2024 couture show, which reasserted fashion as a theatrical, emotional spectacle. Under his direction, Maison Margiela achieved significant business growth, with revenues estimated to be nearing $500 million annually.
Despite its elusive presence at Paris Fashion Week, Maison Margiela remains one of the most influential forces in contemporary fashion, with its tabi boots, deconstructed tailoring, and radical presentations shaping the industry’s aesthetic landscape.
While OTB has yet to confirm when Martens will debut his first collection for Maison Margiela, it is understood that he will continue leading Diesel while shaping Margiela’s future.
Martens’ experimental approach, architectural silhouettes, and deep respect for fashion history suggest that his tenure will continue the house’s legacy of pushing boundaries while evolving its signature codes. With his appointment, Maison Margiela once again places a bold, innovative talent at the helm—one who is well-versed in disrupting and redefining the status quo.
