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Vellus Aureum: ZEGNA Autumn Winter 2025 Menswear Collection

Heritage meets innovation in Alessandro Sartori's vision of relaxed elegance

January 21, 2025
in Fall Winter 2025.26 Menswear, Menswear, Milano Fashion Week, Zegna
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ZEGNA
©ZEGNA

ZEGNA Autumn Winter 2025 Menswear Collection is a tribute to the brand’s enduring pursuit of excellence in wool craftsmanship. Decades ago, Ermenegildo Zegna established the Wool Trophy Awards in Australia to celebrate growers dedicated to refining their flocks. That initial commitment evolved over time into an ongoing partnership with wool experts, culminating in an annual ultra-fine fleece that shapes the house’s exceptional Vellus Aureum fabric. By 2023, a landmark was reached when a single fleece measured a record 9.4 microns, elevating the notion of refinement to new heights.

FALL WINTER 2025.26 MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS

Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori approaches fashion as a conversation between heritage and forward-thinking design. His latest offering draws upon the personal wardrobe of Ermenegildo Zegna, referencing archival cuts and preferences that span decades. Sartori’s devotion to relaxed tailoring is evident in silhouettes that move with the body. Jackets reveal lower button placements, while coats with plush cashfur collars are tailored to stop at the knee. Roomy blousons make a statement through ample lapels or upright collars, anchored by elasticated waists.

ZEGNA
©ZEGNA
ZEGNA
©ZEGNA
ZEGNA
©ZEGNA

Every piece comes alive with a sense of lived experience. Sartori achieves this through finishing treatments on wools and the prized Vellus Aureum thread, creating surfaces that tell stories of wear. The iconic Il Conte jacket appears as a shearling piece, a sleeveless layer, and in a chore-style Oasi Cashmere jersey, demonstrating its evolution over time. Washed Oxford suits suggest renewed usage, blurring distinctions between the newly made and the gently aged. Cotton corduroy woven with cashmere fibers enhances rugged suits, providing practicality with a soft edge.

Knitwear is emphasized throughout. Deep V-neck pullovers reveal multiple shirt layers, forming a casual but composed look. Chunky sweaters and cardigans frequently tuck into high-rise trousers, blending comfort with a slightly formal stance. A notchless shirt appears in a knit iteration for a smooth transition into cooler days. Pocket placements drop diagonally to encourage relaxed hand placement, reinforcing a sense of nonchalance.

Menswear
©ZEGNA
Menswear
©ZEGNA
Menswear
©ZEGNA

A wealth of materials – wool cashmere, wool mohair cover, flannel wool, and Oasi Cashmere – enrich the collection’s tactile dimension. Macro patterns and enlarged donegal motifs offer a nod to the vast textile library that ZEGNA continues to expand. The colors highlight varied shades of fossil, ginepro, dark foliage, serra, and castoro. Striking Gattinara red and falesia accents intensify the range, while occasional touches of Sessera, arnica, giglio montano, and terracotta create contrast. Nero opaco grounds the palette with understated depth.

Accessories mirror the collection’s easy sophistication. Loafers with sturdy soles create subtle visual weight, and gently structured shoulder bags maintain a slouchy feel. Tidy, vintage-inspired eyeglasses support the cultured vibe. By combining laid-back silhouettes with artisanal fabrics, ZEGNA continues a tradition rooted in respect for nature and passion for refinement.

View Gallery 58 images
Tags: collectionsFW25menswearMFW
Ana Markovic

Ana Markovic

Deputy Editor at DSCENE Publishing

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