Simone Rocha is rewriting the codes of masculinity with her FW25 menswear collection, recently unveiled in full via a lookbook that expands on her runway presentation. While many womenswear designers are drawing on classic menswear tropes to convey strength and structure, Rocha does the opposite, introducing softness, sentiment, and a touch of childhood whimsy into her evolving vision of menswear. The result is a collection that feels emotionally rich, delicately detailed, and refreshingly out of step with traditional tailoring.
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The collection takes cues from the familiar fable The Tortoise & The Hare, inviting wearers to slow down and embrace a more reflective pace. The metaphor isn’t just thematic, it’s built into the clothes themselves. Rocha reimagines schoolyard staples with an editorial edge: ruffled varsity polos, pleated shorts, and embellished knits carry echoes of early youth but are reinterpreted through a fashion-forward lens. Bike locks turn into playful belt closures. Faux-fur stuffed animals become wearable stoles. It’s menswear through the eyes of someone unafraid to be tender.
Subtle Details & Poetic Storytelling
There’s a noticeable absence of urgency in these silhouettes. The collection is cohesive in its quiet confidence. Garments flow rather than fight, pleated shorts hit just at the knee, knit vests drape over buttoned shirts, and outerwear is gently oversized without veering into caricature. Even the details, beaded rabbits, intricate button clusters, enhance rather than overwhelm. Rocha leans into decorative storytelling, not as embellishment for its own sake, but as a means of personal and poetic expression.
Outerwear continues to be a standout category for the designer, who has successfully grown her menswear offering in recent seasons. This time, fur-trimmed coats and oversized leather bombers are rendered with ease and restraint. It’s a kind of ornamental utility, where fantasy meets functionality, and where each piece suggests a narrative rather than a trend.
Rocha’s menswear line doesn’t aim to redefine what men wear so much as expand what they’re allowed to feel while wearing it. There’s a sense of emotional permission in these clothes, permission to slow down, to reflect, to carry softness in both form and fabric. The Simone Rocha Menswear FW25 collection is set to arrive in stores later this year. Until then, the lookbook offers a glimpse into a quieter, more intricate masculinity.
Explore Simone Rocha Menswear FW25 lookbook in the Gallery below:
