Pierpaolo Piccioli has been named the new creative director of Balenciaga. Kering confirmed the news on Monday, ending months of speculation following Demna’s departure for Gucci. Piccioli, who led Valentino for over two decades, will oversee all creative output at Balenciaga, spanning women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, accessories, and couture. His debut collection is scheduled for October during Paris Fashion Week, with his official start date set for July 10.
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This appointment marks a sharp pivot in creative tone. Demna’s era, which began in 2015, turned Balenciaga into a cultural flashpoint. His tenure brought oversized tailoring, theatrical distressing, and provocative designs that redefined luxury’s connection to streetwear. At its peak, Balenciaga was a meme magnet and a red carpet fixture. However, recent controversies, including a polarizing ad campaign, weighed on the brand’s public standing, making the decision to install a new creative head both strategic and symbolic.
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Piccioli arrives with a different sensibility. Known for his romantic and couture-driven vision at Valentino, the Italian designer is widely respected for his craft. In his letter released Monday, Piccioli referenced Cristóbal Balenciaga’s architectural genius and called the house’s archive “one of the most influential fashion statements of all time.” He acknowledged the contributions of his predecessors, Nicolas Ghesquière, Alexander Wang, and Demna, and stated his intention to evolve the brand while honoring its core aesthetics.
For Kering, the move comes during a broader period of restructuring. The group is navigating a dip in sales, with its “other houses” segment, where Balenciaga is grouped, reporting an 11 percent decline in the first quarter of 2025. Demna’s appointment at Gucci, Bottega Veneta’s ongoing reshuffle, and now Piccioli’s arrival at Balenciaga reflect a sweeping recalibration. Balenciaga’s retail footprint continues to expand, now totaling 271 stores, and the brand is preparing to enter the fragrance space under Kering Beauté in 2025.
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The choice of Piccioli reflects a renewed focus on couture and craftsmanship. His ability to bring emotion, color, and narrative to fashion aligns with Balenciaga’s origins while providing a clear contrast to the satirical edge of the previous era. Industry figures have expressed support, including Balenciaga CEO Gianfranco Gianangeli, who said he looked forward to building a new chapter with Piccioli. Francesca Bellettini, Kering’s deputy CEO, praised his “mastery of haute couture” and “passion for savoir-faire.”
Whether his poetic vision can recalibrate Balenciaga’s identity without losing its edge remains to be seen. For now, expectations are high as Piccioli prepares to make his mark on one of the industry’s most complex houses.
