Schiaparelli presents its FW25 collection with a defined focus on leather as the central material. The house uses Lone Star as a narrative anchor, drawing from Daniel Roseberry’s Texan roots and the familiar imagery tied to cowboy culture. Leather drives the story through its range of textures, finishes, and structural possibilities.
The material introduces a series of dual qualities that guide the silhouettes. It reads as feminine in one moment and masculine in another. Roseberry uses this range to build pieces that shift depending on how the body moves. He pushes leather toward tension, structure, or fluidity based on the cut. Wide-legged cowboy pants show how the material can hold volume without losing clarity. Sculptural belts demonstrate its ability to anchor a look through pressure and precise curves. He works with both supple skins and more rigid treatments, giving the collection a varied surface language.
Schiaparelli codes appear throughout the collection. Some pieces carry an exclusive Santa Fe pattern embossed directly into the leather. The motif reinforces the link between Roseberry’s reference points and the house’s signature vocabulary. The pattern sits within the material rather than on top, giving each garment a sense of depth through compressed texture.
The house also uses tooled leather, a material with a strong link to cowboy tradition. Boots, belts, and bags carry punched and pressed surfaces that reference long-standing methods used to decorate working gear. Roseberry shifts this approach into a luxury context by applying it to controlled volumes and polished silhouettes. The treatment brings a tactile presence that aligns with the Western influence he draws from, while keeping the pieces firmly within Schiaparelli’s world.
One clutch appears to mimic beaten copper, yet Roseberry constructs it entirely from treated gold leather. The effect demonstrates how the house plays with perception, using technique and finish to shift material expectations. The piece reads as metal at first glance, though it holds the softness and flexibility of leather.
The new Secret bag sits at the center of the collection. Roseberry develops it in soft leathers paired with surrealist brass details. The design works through illusion, giving the impression of hard elements that move with the body and soft elements that carry a sense of internal strength.
