Saul Nash presented his Spring Summer 2027 collection, STANCE, during Milan Fashion Week inside SGM Forza e Coraggio, one of Milan’s oldest sporting societies. The setting gave the London-based designer a direct frame for a collection built around masculinity, strength, desire and the body under pressure. Nash has always treated clothing as something that activates the wearer. This season, he turns that idea toward posture, exposure and control.
SPRING SUMMER 2027
“The collection began through researching archival imagery of sports figures and male pin-ups, examining how masculinity is constructed and performed through both clothes and gesture,” says Saul Nash. That sentence explains the season’s visual tension. STANCE studies the male body as image, athlete, object and subject. Nash looks at how men learn to carry themselves, how clothes shape that performance, and how desire enters through the same codes that define sport.
The wrestling singlet gives the collection its key graphic idea. Nash takes its shape and sends it across compression tops, where it traces the torso like both uniform and provocation. The same line also recalls a sports hall floor, giving the motif a double reading. It appears again across breathable mesh knits, connected to the technical language Nash developed for his 2022 International Woolmark Prize-winning work. These pieces make the body visible through structure, surface and suggestion.
Varsity references run through the collection with a controlled hand. Striped knitted panels fall down the backs of bomber jackets, while waterproof shirts carry perforated outlines that hint at the singlet shape. Nash uses sports codes as construction tools, then brings them into a more intimate territory. The garments show skin, hide skin, frame muscle and interrupt the surface of the body with lines, openings and changes in opacity.
Function remains one of Nash’s strongest instincts. A merino wool pinstripe jacket borrows from equestrian uniforms and gains a built-in hood. A floor-length rain jacket takes the shape of a double-breasted trench and catches air as the wearer walks. A suede jacket uses ventilation holes as both practical detail and visual device. Nash understands technical design as part of the garment’s character, so utility never feels added at the end.
The collection’s lighter pieces bring a sensual charge. Ultra-light nylon ripstop twinsets come in pale yellows and rustic oranges, with panels of different opacity revealing glimpses of the body underneath. Nash also revisits his nipple-exposing Henley shirts in collegiate colourways, giving the wearer direct control over how much skin enters the look. This choice gives STANCE its most intimate register, where exposure becomes personal, athletic and erotic without losing restraint.
Nash sharpens his tailoring through motion. Form-fitting semi-sheer track jackets and cycling shorts in super-stretch mesh and Lycra hug the body closely. Denim carries whiskering for a worn-in feel, while trousers use darts that open as the wearer walks. A new suit jacket, shaped with pleats and an elasticated back, references fencing uniforms and appears in Ponte Di Milano and drill. Here, formalwear starts to behave like sportswear, responding to the body instead of sitting apart from it.
Footwear extends the collection’s hybrid language. In collaboration with APICCAPS and TOWORKFOR, Nash introduces his second footwear design, a boat shoe reworked with a mesh and suede upper and drawstring-style lacing. The shoe fits the collection’s broader attitude, pulling a familiar masculine classic into a more technical and tactile space. Clarks also joins the show’s footwear story, grounding the collection in recognizable shapes while Nash redirects them toward his own vocabulary.
Nash also previewed SLNSH Summer 2026, the fifth and final chapter of his collaboration with lululemon. The selected looks brought lenticular prints, lightweight layers and coastal tones into the show, including sun-faded jersey tracksuits, half zip bodysuits, printed t-shirts and waterproof jackets with a moving bodies motif. The preview connected Nash’s mainline work to his performance-focused collaboration without diluting STANCE.
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Saul Nash treats masculinity as something active, unstable and studied. He builds garments that follow the body, frame it, expose it and challenge the way it performs. For Spring Summer 2027, Saul Nash gives sportswear a sharper emotional charge and turns tailoring into a language of motion, tension and desire.
