Meruert Tolegen continues to develop her dark, moody aesthetic for Spring Summer 2027, building directly on ideas established across previous seasons. Presented in Paris, the collection extends the designer’s interest in romantic silhouettes, handwork and sculptural construction while introducing new combinations of fluid fabrics, structured materials and floral treatments.
SPRING SUMMER 2027
Silk chiffon, cupro, lace, mesh and cotton create much of the collection’s softer side. Tolegen sets these lighter materials against denim and silk organza, allowing changes in weight and structure to shape the silhouettes. The contrast gives the collection a sense of tension that runs through both the materials and their construction.
That tension also appears in the way Tolegen handles volume. Sculpted coats and dresses introduce different degrees of rigidity, while corsetry supports several looks from within. Instead of treating corsetry as an obvious decorative feature, the designer incorporates it into the pattern and construction, allowing it to influence shape without always revealing its presence.
Meruert Tolegen introduces two original prints, each taking a different approach to the motif. One uses an embroidered cross-stitch floral design, while the second presents a blurred field of flowers. The prints bring additional depth to the fabrics while keeping the collection connected to the romantic vocabulary that has appeared throughout the designer’s previous work.
The floral references continue through appliqué and hand-finished details. Tolegen uses hand-beading and embroidery throughout the collection, creating surfaces that reward close observation. Small beads and appliquéd elements were made by hand in-house, connecting the collection to techniques that have appeared in the label since its earliest seasons.
Some pieces use lace coated with a rubber-like finish, changing the familiar material into something firmer and more abstract. That intervention allows Tolegen to retain the visual associations of lace while shifting its physical character.
Chiffon introduces movement and transparency, while organza, denim and internal corsetry provide greater definition. Tolegen does not treat romanticism as sweetness. Instead, she gives delicate surfaces a darker quality through structure, material treatments and restrained construction. Sculptural headpieces created in collaboration with Gigi Burris extend that approach beyond the garments.
Tolegen described her work as cumulative, with each collection growing from the one before it. For Spring Summer 2027, she continues that process through familiar elements such as florals, lace, embroidery and sculpted silhouettes, while changing how they function within the clothes.
