Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025 collection, titled “Icarus,” brings an extravagant reinterpretation of past techniques and materials to the runway. Creative Director Daniel Roseberry draws inspiration from forgotten ribbons of the 1920s and 1930s, their colors and textures offering a starting point for a collection that challenges modern fashion’s preoccupation with minimalism. Roseberry uses these antique materials as a gateway to reimagine the possibilities of couture, where old-world artistry and imagination take center stage.
The journey began with Roseberry’s discovery of pre-war ribbons in Lyon, once hidden during France’s occupation in World War II. These ribbons, with hues like butter yellow, faded peacock green, and burnt saffron brown (playfully named “toast”), set the tone for the collection’s color story. Roseberry embraced these shades to create designs that evoke the craftsmanship of historic couture houses while making them relevant for today.
“I wanted to create something that feels new because it’s old,” Roseberry explains, emphasizing the revival of intricate detailing and baroque extravagance. He turned to the legacies of great couturiers, Madame Grès, Charles Frederick Worth, Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, and Azzedine Alaïa, not to copy their work but to learn from their mastery of craft.
The collection takes inspiration from multiple eras, resulting in garments that nod to historical styles while reinterpreting them with contemporary techniques. Liquid silk georgette, embroidered with Japanese bugle beads, is layered over French corset toile, shaping dramatic hip structures. Prewar Schiaparelli jackets are reimagined with extended proportions and paired with simple, bias-cut satin skirts reminiscent of 1990s minimalism.
A-line baby doll dresses from the 1950s are modernized with padded hips to echo the bust line, creating a fresh silhouette. These are crafted from satin cuir, a leather-like fabric, embroidered with Schiaparelli’s signature house codes, including the keyhole, the dove, and anatomical motifs.
Roseberry’s dedication to experimentation is evident throughout the collection. Feathers were treated with glycerin and keratin to replicate the silk-like textures of 1930s Hollywood costumes. Ultrasuede blazers were overlaid with silk satin threadwork, while corsets were constructed using layers of wool, cotton, and elastic-stretched silk satin to achieve a flawless surface.
One standout is a plissé halter gown in sand-colored polyamide tulle. This modern fabric, chosen for its weight and structure, replaces traditional silk to achieve a contemporary sense of refinement. Accessories were elevated to couture status, with shoes and bags adorned in techniques ranging from resin rosettes to Matador cording, each treated like miniature works of art.
The collection’s title, “Icarus,” reflects the relentless ambition of haute couture. Roseberry likens the process of creating couture to an uphill climb, striving for perfection and pushing the boundaries of craftsmanship with each season. The collection serves as a reminder that couture is not just a form of escapism but a dedication to artistry that transcends time. Schiaparelli’s ateliers have created garments and accessories that evoke a sense of imagination rarely seen, proving that perfection and extravagance remain integral to couture’s DNA.
