The Issey Miyake FW25 collection, titled [N]either [N]or, unveiled on March 7 at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris, explores the essence of ambiguity, challenging the conventional boundaries of materiality, form, and meaning. Inspired by the creative approach of Austrian artist Erwin Wurm, the collection invites viewers to reconsider their perceptions of the ordinary, propelling them into a sphere of fluctuating definitions.
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Erwin Wurm’s influence is distinctly evident throughout the collection, especially in the presentation’s integration of his One Minute Sculptures. These works, characterized by spontaneous interactions between the audience and the art, resonate with Issey Miyake’s philosophy of clothing as an interactive extension of the human body. This season, performers activated these sculptures, creating a setting that echoed the collection’s theme of transformative ambiguity.
The collection itself is an orchestration of four thematic pillars: Abstract Concrete, Body Object, Nature Fabrication, and Clothing Sculpture. Lead designer Satoshi Kondo crafts a narrative of serene inexactness through these themes, with each garment serving as a medium for artistic expression. The runway show captivated attendees, featuring models showcasing a 50-look collection that has been acclaimed as Issey Miyake’s most impressive in ten years.
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The garments themselves were presented as if they were part of a larger sculptural installation. Ribbed knitwear draped over cement blocks and dual-worn garments connected models, creating visual dialogues between form and function, presence and absence. The runway came alive with a tranquil procession of models, their choreography mirroring the fluidity and unexpectedness of the collection. Garments were worn in deliberately “incorrect” ways, sleeves repurposed as accessories, asymmetrical cuts disrupting traditional garment structures, and layers of oversized blazers over twisted shirts.
The finale of the show was a breathtaking display of oversized scarves, pocketed sweater vests in bold primary colors, and square-shaped puffers that redefined menswear silhouettes. The last ten looks, featuring ballooning fabrics and striped teal outerwear, were met with a standing ovation.
