Niccolò Pasqualetti presented the Spring Summer 2026 men’s collection on June 19th at Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, as part of Pitti Uomo 108. The designer introduced 33 looks that reject rigid categories, focusing instead on how garments shape-shift throughout the day.
The collection draws on pieces tied to discipline and function: military uniforms, workwear, sportswear, and tailoring. These references appear not as fixed styles, but as fragments repositioned through contrast. A swimsuit waistband slips above fatigue pants, a tank top emerges beneath a sheer shirt, a cut of wool sits beside a gauzy cotton layer.
Fabrics carry this approach further. Raw denim holds its structure while embroidery softens its surface with a nod to Sashiko. Silk and linen sit beside cotton textured like dried pigment. Laser-cut suede imitates camouflage without falling into mimicry. The textures resist uniformity, creating quiet friction between precision and softness, weight and transparency.
Pasqualetti continues to question the format of garments themselves. Shapes unfold unexpectedly. Trousers split at the shin. Shorts open into wide panels that behave like skirts. Draping softens capes into shapes that shift with movement. Shirts fall from the shoulder or twist at the waist, leaving the body partially exposed. Some pieces drape freely, others anchor with asymmetry. Every construction tests where the edges of a garment should begin or end.
Jewellery follows the same logic. Pasqualetti doesn’t treat it as embellishment. Instead, he uses repeated modular forms, linked elements that form a continuous system. The jewellery doesn’t complete the look, it functions as part of the structure. It loops and stacks like fabric itself, shifting attention from surface to form.
Rather than assign garments to a single gender or time of day, Pasqualetti lets them remain open. His silhouettes speak to tension between belonging and independence, strength and tenderness. What appears strict in one context unfastens in another. A shirt that starts buttoned becomes a wrap. A pair of pants reads differently once the fabric flares, parts, or trails off-center. Nothing in the collection stays fixed, and that seems deliberate.
