UJOH presents its Fall Winter 2026.27 collection around the idea of antithesis. In Japanese as in French, the term signals questioning instead of rupture. The collection examines the house’s foundations, shapes, and established codes through a process of scrutiny and revision. UJOH approaches its own design language with critical distance and reshapes familiar structures through deliberate reconsideration.
FALL WINTER 2026
The identity of the house remains intact while the silhouettes evolve with renewed intensity. Tailoring gains sharper definition. Volumes relax and open the structure of the garments. This process strips forms to their essential elements and gives minimalism a new edge. The collection channels a grunge energy linked to the rock attitude of the 1990s. Elegance interacts with disorder and generates a silhouette defined through tension and controlled disruption.
UJOH maintains a strong connection with artisanal practice and places fabric development at the center of the collection. Selected textiles are woven in Japan on a Schöherr machine dating from the 1960s. This loom operates five times slower than contemporary industrial machines. The slower process produces distinctive surfaces and revives a sense of physical engagement with the material itself.
Through this technique the collection introduces fabrics that resist acceleration and industrial rhythm. Innovative nylons appear beside translucent textures that reveal the complexity of the weave. The resulting surfaces emphasize patience and attention to material behavior.
Faux suede and faux fur appear together on an aviator jacket, creating a tactile contrast within a familiar garment form. Lace surfaces emerge in surprising positions and disrupt expectations about placement and function. Zippers cut across garments and interrupt established lines, producing silhouettes that convey a raw and rugged attitude.
The palette shifts toward darker tones that structure the garments and anchor the visual direction. Black, chocolate, and rosewood dominate the range. Fern green and dark fig introduce depth within the darker spectrum. White and beige appear through shades described as sharkskin and provide contrast within the palette. Checked patterns bring an additional reference to the grunge influence that informs the season.
The runway abandons the conventional sequence of a show. The garments appear in free order and encourage viewers to explore the pieces without a fixed narrative progression. A collaboration with the Japanese music duo DREAMS COME TRUE forms a key element within the season. UJOH designs stage costumes for the group’s tour. Techniques and details developed through this partnership enter the collection and shape selected garments.
