#LFW Peter Jensen Fall Winter 2016

Its not hard to understand why Peter Jensen fell in love with Peggy Guggenheim. For one thing, there’s the rumour of a thousand lovers. There’s the family: the millionaire father who died on the Titanic, with a glass of brandy in one hand and a cigar in the other. And there’s the bohemian lifestyle: after inheriting what today would be 34 million dollars, at age 22 Guggenheim moved to Montmartre and befriended Brancusi, Duchamp and Man Ray. 
Shapes called ‘Anorak’ and ‘Smock’ are given a jolt with frilled pockets and spandex lace. T-shirts, sweatshirts and wool-crêpe dresses are given Alexander Calder-like appliqués and prints, or else embroidered with a fish-rabbit’ motif, inspired by the bed-head that Calder designed for Guggenheim, interbred with the iconic Jensen logo. Calder also inspires a spiral cut technique that gives ajersey top its extraordinary frill; gold and silver earrings custom made by Becca Hulbert; and a print that imagines just how the artist might have drawn his patron, in one continuous line. Other motifs play off the exuberant patterns that Guggen-heim sported in her old age, and the real loves of her life – the dogs she is buried next to in the palazzo – are referenced in a bold graphic print on cotton voile shirts, viscose jersey pants, and piqué polos. Other wardrobe staples also get the Peggy treatment: the humble cable knit has a front-ful of sequins, and a simple shift dress in wool-crêpe is covered with laser-cut petals. An otherwise prim colour-blocked dress has a V-neck dropped almost to the navel, and a leather ‘supermarket bag has a glamorous frilled pocket on the front. Why sacrifice zest for practicality? Don your Jensen leopard-print faux-fur, and a pair of his rubber overshoes, and the flood in St Mark’s isn’t worth a second thought. – from Peter Jenasen

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All images courtesy of Peter Jensen