Designer Peter Jensen presented his Fall Winter 2016 collection during the ongoing London Fashion Week.
Its not hard to understand why Peter Jensen fell in love with Peggy Guggenheim. For one thing, there’s the rumour of a thousand lovers. There’s the family: the millionaire father who died on the Titanic, with a glass of brandy in one hand and a cigar in the other. And there’s the bohemian lifestyle: after inheriting what today would be 34 million dollars, at age 22 Guggenheim moved to Montmartre and befriended Brancusi, Duchamp and Man Ray.
Shapes called ‘Anorak’ and ‘Smock’ are given a jolt with frilled pockets and spandex lace. T-shirts, sweatshirts and wool-crêpe dresses are given Alexander Calder-like appliqués and prints, or else embroidered with a fish-rabbit’ motif, inspired by the bed-head that Calder designed for Guggenheim, interbred with the iconic Jensen logo. Calder also inspires a spiral cut technique that gives ajersey top its extraordinary frill; gold and silver earrings custom made by Becca Hulbert; and a print that imagines just how the artist might have drawn his patron, in one continuous line. Other motifs play off the exuberant patterns that Guggen-heim sported in her old age, and the real loves of her life – the dogs she is buried next to in the palazzo – are referenced in a bold graphic print on cotton voile shirts, viscose jersey pants, and piqué polos. Other wardrobe staples also get the Peggy treatment: the humble cable knit has a front-ful of sequins, and a simple shift dress in wool-crêpe is covered with laser-cut petals. An otherwise prim colour-blocked dress has a V-neck dropped almost to the navel, and a leather ‘supermarket bag has a glamorous frilled pocket on the front. Why sacrifice zest for practicality? Don your Jensen leopard-print faux-fur, and a pair of his rubber overshoes, and the flood in St Mark’s isn’t worth a second thought. – from Peter Jenasen
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All images courtesy of Peter Jensen