SACAI presented both Fall Winter 2017.18 Men’s and Pre Fall 2017 Women’s collections during the Paris Fashion Week. Combining traditional pieces with hidden decorative details, the collection plays with tension between eccentricity and simplicity. For Fall 2017 collections, sacai presented the first collaboration with THE NORTH FACE both for men and women.
FALL WINTER 2017/18 MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS
sacai’s signature hybrid aesthetic is explored through the prism of insanity and being unencumbered by what is rational. The unreasoned gesture of a cut, splicing familiar clothing archetypes and then reassembling ideas in pairings that challenge convention. Juxtapositions that shouldn’t make sense when seen together, yet somehow do. Then joining them with a raw-edged, unrefined honesty that suggests a new definition of what is perfect. – from sacai
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SACAI’s presentation during Paris Fashion Week for Fall Winter 2017.18 was a compelling showcase of the brand’s ongoing dialogue between tradition and innovation. This season, both the men’s and Pre-Fall women’s collections were unveiled together, reinforcing Chitose Abe’s reputation for collapsing boundaries between genres, genders, and expectations. The collections were defined by a deliberate interplay of classic tailoring and subversive detailing, with Abe’s signature hybrid aesthetic taking center stage.
At the heart of the Fall Winter 2017/18 collections is a fascination with the tension between eccentricity and simplicity. Traditional wardrobe staples—think tailored coats, bomber jackets, and utilitarian parkas—are deconstructed and reimagined through unexpected cuts, layered constructions, and hidden decorative elements. Abe’s approach is rooted in experimentation: familiar silhouettes are spliced, juxtaposed, and reassembled in ways that disrupt conventional logic. The result is a wardrobe that feels both grounded in sartorial heritage and radically contemporary.
A standout moment of the season was the introduction of SACAI’s first collaboration with THE NORTH FACE, a partnership that brought the Japanese brand’s deconstructive ethos to the world of technical outerwear. Both men’s and women’s pieces feature THE NORTH FACE’s performance fabrics and iconic design language, reinterpreted through SACAI’s lens. Down jackets and vests appear with asymmetric hems, patchwork paneling, and inventive layering, transforming practical cold-weather staples into avant-garde statements. This collaboration underscores SACAI’s ability to bridge streetwear sensibilities with high-fashion craftsmanship, appealing to a diverse and style-conscious audience.
The menswear offering for Fall Winter 2017/18 is particularly noteworthy for its exploration of the “unreasoned gesture.” Abe leans into the concept of insanity—not as chaos, but as a liberation from rational constraints. Garments are constructed with raw-edged seams and visible splices, creating a sense of honesty and vulnerability. Classic items like trench coats and suit jackets are combined with unexpected elements: a tailored blazer might merge with the sleeve of a military parka, or a knit sweater might be attached to a nylon windbreaker. These juxtapositions, which initially seem incongruous, ultimately coalesce into a new, compelling vision of modern menswear.
The women’s Pre-Fall 2017 collection follows a similar trajectory. Here, sacai’s hybrid language is expressed through fluid dresses layered over structured pants, pleated skirts paired with utility vests, and delicate lace inserts set against robust outerwear. The interplay of textures and silhouettes is both visually arresting and deeply wearable, offering versatility for the modern woman. Decorative details—hidden pockets, adjustable straps, and contrasting trims—invite closer inspection and add an element of discovery to each piece.
Throughout both collections, color plays a crucial role. A palette of deep blues, olive greens, and rich burgundies is punctuated by flashes of neon and metallics, reflecting the brand’s playful approach to tradition. Accessories, including oversized scarves, chunky boots, and hybrid bags, complete the looks and reinforce the season’s theme of functional eccentricity.
Ultimately, SACAI’s Fall Winter 2017.18 collections are a study in contradictions—eccentric yet restrained, disruptive yet refined. Abe’s willingness to challenge the boundaries of rational design results in clothing that is intellectually engaging and emotionally resonant. The collaboration with THE NORTH FACE marks a significant evolution for the brand, bringing technical innovation and streetwise appeal into the fold. SACAI continues to redefine the possibilities of contemporary fashion, offering collections that are as thought-provoking as they are covetable.
All images courtesy of Sacai
