DiscoverJohn GallianoFall Winter 2017.18 collection presented during the Paris Fashion Week. Inspired by the eccentric elegance of Marchesa Luisa Casati, creative director Bill Gaytten evoked the richness of French savoir faire in contemporary manner.
With a liberal sprinkling of shine and surface detail, the lineup spans moody suiting to fluid dresses, often landing midway on sumptuous separates in velvet and georgette that prove deceivingly easy to wear. Deluxe floral s including a chrysanthemum jacquard and devoré iris are layered to enhance the sense of bygone beauty, whilst wooden Italian micro beads, astrakhan and goat hair contribute texture. The palette of lilac, sage, petrol blue and rust — often shown in monochrome — evokes the decorating of a Belle Époque salon, with the lilac deliberately employed as a contemporary, counterpoint to black. Techniques are distinctive; oversized smocking found at a neckline or at the back of dress coat add freshness to a Victorian-era flourish. If the silhouette of pants occasionally appears to curve, so too does the draping, a blip effect that brings rippled dimension to the maison’s signature bias cuts. A pleated neckline that seems drawn from an overlap of petals reinforces the couture roots of this collection. Among the dresses, a pattern of bugle beads th at nods to Aubrey Beardley’s illustrations for Salome crystallizes the spirit of the season. – from John Galliano