Drawing the inspiration from the past to project into the future, Marni’s Spring 2018 collection takes us on the imaginary journey, through different places and times.
Hence the ‘20s swimming costume is reinvented in an unprecedented knit version, with bright colours and bold combinations. The uniform, a symbol of sobriety, becomes a celebration of pragmatism; the blazer in industrial gabardine fabric reveals a reversible poplin interior that suggests an alternative use. Scaled up, it transforms into a dramatic overcoat. Utility that becomes couture. Full circular skirts, an echo of the romanticism of the ‘50s, are modified by the addition of a knot which creates a spontaneous, natural-looking volume. The collar of the masculine XXL shirt is cut open and becomes an ultra-feminine neckline. The eel trench coat ties up at the shoulders, like a rucksack. Bourgeois women’s suits are completely overhauled: the meticulous hand embroidery becomes a decorative pattern, the fur turns into a geometric inlay. Silhouettes become longer, and night-time is represented by flowing dresses that skim the body, silk petticoats worn on top of shirts, coarse linen dresses embellished by brocade patches. – from Marni
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