Discover Officine Générale‘s Fall Winter 2020.21 collection inspired by a made-to-measure trousers that used to belong to Hordes Genberg, Sunil Gupta’s photography book, a series of pictures of Jacques Dutronc, and last year’s sunny days, presented on Friday, January 17th, during the recently finished Paris Fashion Week.
“The story of this collection starts in the South of France, in the Lubéron, in late June. One week after my latest show. A winter collection taking shape under a burning sun. The constant heat plays tricks on me, it makes me crave volume, air, flexibility in the coats, large proportions on the pants. My wife Nina digs into her archives and finds what will become the beginning of this show: a made-to-measure trousers that used to belong to Hordes Genberg, the wife of actor David Niven, that my wife bought from an antique store. Double box pleats, perfect ampleness. I just need to make the jackets’ shoulders bolder and give two extra centimeters in length to get the exact shape I had in mind.
A few weeks later, mi-July, I’m in NYC in a library in the West Village. I go through Christopher Street 1976, Sunil Gupta’s photography book and I find these captivating images that just confirm that I have to treat my velvet and my large wale corduroy with denim. But most importantly I’m seduced by the military vibe that the New York streets gave out so well in the late 70’s. The missing piece appears during one of those splendid jet-lag nights, early September in Tokyo. These nights when your eyes should be closed but end up wide open, facing a computer screen, looking hopelessly for a distraction. At this moment, I’m looking for the French version of thestreets shot by Gupta, when I stumble upon a series of pictures of Jacques Dutronc, involving a lot of Françoise Hardy. Then and there, I understand that I need to tape the pants’ legs, shorten the jackets, bring back the knitted ties and my favorite English draperies, rework the collar of my womenswear tuxedo. And also, that I need to make the women’s dresses more feminine.“
Style consultant: Benoit Bethume
Stylist: Marine Lescieux
Hairstylist: Ed Moedlands
Makeup artist: Nina Haverkamp
Casting Director: Paul Louisor
Video: Titre Provisoire
Courtesy of ©OFFICINE GÉNÉRALE / PR Consulting Paris