Fashion house DUNHILL presented their Fall Winter 2022.23 Menswear Collection, that explores the utilitarian rigour, extravagance and power of a finely tailored uniform. The collection reinterprets the brand’s new era style with a new kind of conservatism and a hint of subversion. British dichotomy symbols of class and creativity clash with a sense of reality. Photographer Angus Williams captured the lookbook featuring models Alexander Beck, Alexander Carey Morgan, Andrew Westermann, Ben Allen, Gena Malinin, Jeremy Young, Keenan Gyamfi, and Woosang Kim. In charge of styling was Elliott Smedley, with casting direction from Barbara Nicoli and Leila Ananna. Beauty is work of hair stylist Matt Mulhall, and makeup artist Wendy Rowe.
I really wanted to explore a sense of tailoring, sophistication and rigour once more. That idea of a masculine uniform, its world of functionality as well as military ceremony, the roots of our British tailoring traditions are so much part of these very things. I also wanted to look at how subversive and rebellious it actually feels for a younger man to embrace a strict suit as well as a shirt and tie now, to adopt an almost conventional uniform and make it so unconventional. It’s the power and rigour of clothing that makes you feel something and behave in a certain way. This collection is a return to a certain discipline and tradition, yet there is always a simultaneous sense of British subversion within what we do and in the person who might wear it. – Mark Weston, Creative Director of Dunhill
“The Wrapped Jacket and Split Hem Trousers take on a more formal, rigorous tone in complete suiting looks with high breaks and strong shoulders. Moire appears once more, this time as a nylon technical fabric in the green Compendium Coat, its multi-functional elegance becoming a counter point over strict tailoring. Traditional camel in wool cashmere is bonded with neoprene to create a Cocoon architecture for a not so conventional overcoat. Coated paper cotton is utilised for an oversized raincoat to be layered over a leather suit jacket. These established styles are joined by different codes more military in origin, such as livery buttons and regimental ties, a light tailoring mohair spin on a military uniform shirt and a palette of armed forces colours. A certain austerity and layered severity is embraced by all.” – from Dunhill