The shoulder is kind of going wide wide wide wide wide wide wide to the side. Discover Hed Mayner Fall Winter 2022 collection presented during the ongoing Paris Fashion Week. Paris-based designer shows once again his obsession with silhouette. Presenting the compositions of clothes with gestures cut into them, there is something more direct in his latest offering – the neck becomes elongated, the shoulder exaggerated, creating something unbalanced on the body.
FALL WINTER 2022.23 MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS
The mood is somewhere between buoyant and wistful. There’s a ripple to the way the clothes move – a gentle sway as the hem of pants graze the floor, a scarf jogs off the leg. The elbow of a sleeve billows. Everything is disconnected. Things can be split and spliced together; a parka jacket with no back becomes an accessory. Gargantuan padded scarves smother and lengthen the body. XXL pants are held up on the waist and gathered at the front with one pleat, as if the wearer had naively adapted it on themselves. – from Hed Mayner.
The proportions of a fine grey chalk stripe double-breasted blazer are capacious, the shoulders slump down the body as if it had been discovered in a padlocked late19thcentury gentleman’s closet. It is worn with a slim trouser that skims into a buckled leather sandal, which turns up at the toe.
The shoulder is kind of going wide wide wide wide wide wide wide to the side Hed Mayner’s previous collections arrived from of an obsession with silhouette; compositions of clothes with gestures cut into them. There is something more direct in his latest offering. The front lapels of an XL double-breasted fully tailored men’s coat are hacked away. The neck becomes elongated, the shoulder exaggerated, creating something unbalanced on the body. The mood is somewhere between buoyant and wistful. There’s a ripple to the way the clothes move – a gentle sway as the hem of pants graze the floor, a scarf jogs off the leg. The elbow of a sleeve billows. Everything is disconnected. Things can be split and spliced together; a parka jacket with no back becomes an accessory. Gargantuan padded scarves smother and lengthen the body. XXL pants are held up on the waist and gathered at the front with one pleat, as if the wearer had naively adapted it on
themselves. The proportions of a fine grey chalk stripe double-breasted blazer are capacious, the shoulders slump down the body as if it had been discovered in a padlocked late 19 th century gentleman’s closet. It is worn with a slim trouser that skims into a buckled leather sandal, which turns up at the toe. Where before the process was about shape and fabric, Mayner adds texture. Textiles are aged, merino knitwear is destroyed, cottons are coated or stonewashed. Suiting is in gabardine or British wool with pinstripe or check. Shirting is made from sleeve lining fabrics. Faux leather has a lustre. Washed and quilted, a meadowy Liberty print named ‘Poppy and Daisy’ dating back to the 1910s channels a languid optimism. Oversized, immense clothes offer protection from interference; there is a space between the wearer’s body, the clothes, and us, the onlooker. Mayner’s AW22 has an aura of suspended, cosseted elegance.
