Luxury house FENDI presented their Autumn Winter 2022.23 Haute Couture Collection, that was inspired by different cultures and by cities such as Kyoto, Paris, and Rome, on July 7th, during the recently finished Paris Fashion Week. The collection’s starting point was Kyoto, the cultural capital of Japan. It features reinterpreted fragments of kimono fabric from the eighteenth century, as well as traditional silk panels reimagined as asymmetrical floor-length dress silhouettes. The collection also captures the spirit of Paris with construction and fabrication, and it includes Italian take on the tailleur in the vicuna, leather and fur work. For the season, designer Kim Jones make connections between East and West, masculine and feminine, the natural and the manmade, tradition and the modern.
This season, I wanted to step away from Rome, or at least I wanted to place Rome in a global context. In this collection, we are looking at fragments of different cities, namely Kyoto, Paris and Rome. The fragmentary nature of things is echoed throughout the collection, like snatches of memory or the impression of things past, present and future. – Kim Jones, Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear.
“Nods to masculine codes of tailoring are found in Vicuna fabric suiting and cognac calf leather pieces, with their structures, emphasised internally and at times externally. There are also personal pleasures, just for the wearer in the construction of many of the items – internally, traditional Japanese fabrics are used as linings and quiltings in suiting as well as in underpinnings in dresses. The supreme skills of the FENDI fur atelier are on display in the intarsia construction of the shaved mink suiting. Here, an abstract reinterpretation of another traditional Japanese fabric fragment from the eighteenth century is realised – named Rope Mountain, it both grounds and monumentalises the collection.” – From Fendi