David Koma’s Spring Summer 2025 collection introduces his first menswear line during Milano Fashion Week. Koma reflects on this venture as a natural extension of his brand, “Club Koma.” This collection is deeply personal, as Koma envisions himself as the customer and designs with his male friends in mind. This new chapter broadens the inclusivity and reach of his creative vision, inviting diverse voices and perspectives into the brand’s realm.
Following his recent womenswear collection, which drew inspiration from dance icons like Pina Bausch and Candela Capitan, Koma’s transition to menswear continues to explore the dance world. The collection is inspired by Jiří Kylián’s contemporary ballet, “Sarabande,” a piece that explores the complex interplay of male aggression and vulnerability. The theme of ‘formation’ in the performance resonated with Koma, influencing the intricate designs and dynamic elements of the menswear collection.
The new collection aims to capture the multifaceted nature of masculinity, reflecting the diverse characters within Koma’s social circle. Juxtapositions play a pivotal role, combining commonplace and distinctive qualities to create a balanced portrayal of the Koma Man. This character embodies strength, aloofness, and independence while exuding a soft, sensual aura. Subtle nods to whimsy and sensuality temper the overtly masculine utilitarian references.
David Koma elevates quintessential wardrobe materials with unique embellishments and innovative techniques. Office-like poplins are reimagined in military shirting and boxer shorts, while denim appears in dusty indigo or raw boucle. Leather pieces range from tailored to casual, offered in soft napa or heavily distressed forms. Tailored shapes in cady, satin, and wool boucle are decorated with branded chrome hardware and garter-like details, referencing Gavin Turk’s 1993 artwork “Pop.” The collection also features embellishments and opulent feather plumes, balanced by casual jersey elements that have a lived-in quality, reminiscent of dancers’ personal wardrobes. Take a closer look at the David Koma Men’s SS25 Collection in the Gallery below:
