As a recent recipient of the 2024 BFC/GQ Designer Fashion Fund, Bianca Saunders channels her creative energies into a thematic exploration of persona and identity through the lens of a transient tourist for the Spring Summer 25 Collection. This collection draws profound inspiration from Bradley Smith‘s 1940s photographs of a Jamaican resort, which depict the distinctive elegance and demeanor of the resort staff. “The Hotel” thus serves as a creative canvas for Saunders to reimagine the narratives within these images, crafting a series of garments.
In this collection, Saunders engages with the art of tailoring, subverting traditional menswear silhouettes and introducing elements like a wool-cotton evening jacket with a redesigned narrow shawl lapel, and slanted welt pockets that redefine the conventional formality of resort attire. These pieces are complemented by shirts featuring concealed plackets and playful prints that nod to the superficial allure of resort destinations. The integration of unconventional details such as plastic cornucopia prints on tie backs further emphasizes her critique of the idealized vacation experience, introducing irony and cultural commentary into the collection.
Saunders also introduces a new print this season—an amorphous ripple pattern that subtly mirrors the male physique, challenging the prevalent focus on the hourglass figure in womenswear. This print is found on items like slim-fit cotton button-downs with oversized collars and coordinating leggings. Additionally, the collection features asymmetric blouses and shirts with draping and scarf details.
The collection references Saunders’ Jamaican heritage, which adds layers of personal and cultural narrative to the garments. A standout piece is a sequin fleece tracksuit that captures the Jamaican night sky, making men’s leisurewear glamorous, yet approachable. Other homage-laden pieces include a semi-fitted shirt paired with a skort designed to echo a Jamaican schoolgirl uniform, and accessories like vinyl bags and oversized tanks adorned with local proverbs and travel-inspired slogans.
Sustainability remains a cornerstone of Saunders’ design process, with the collection featuring textiles sourced from Nona Source, an LVMH-backed platform known for its sustainable fabric usage. The launch of “The Hotel” is accompanied by Saunders’ first footwear designs, done in collaboration with the Portuguese Association of Footwear and Leather Goods. This new line includes everything from leather mid-length boots to square-toed knit slip-ons. Take a closer look at the collection in the Gallery below:
