The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial stands as a remarkable showcase of craftsmanship. Inspired by the Maison’s iconic trunks, this limited edition of 50 platinum watches highlights the exceptional work of four master artisans, each contributing their expertise to create a watch that represents the peak of artistry and innovation.
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At the center of the Escale’s design is its dial, crafted from solid gold and improved through a combination of guilloché engraving and grand feu enamel techniques. The process begins with milling the gold dial to form a raised edge that frames the center. The edge serves as a boundary for the enamel, meanwhile, artisans engrave the central area by hand using a traditional rose engine. The guilloché pattern created is alluring, with precise radial lines that demand the skill of an experienced guillocheur.
Next, the enameller carefully mixes finely ground enamel pigments with water and oil to achieve the desired translucent effect. Artisans use the champlevé technique to paint the enamel into the engraved sections of the dial. This process ensures vibrant, rich colors and a polished finish.
Adding another layer of complexity, the back of the dial is also coated with enamel. This counter enamel prevents the dial from warping during the high-temperature firing process, which reaches over 800℃. The underside is engraved with “Guilloché Main, Émail Grand Feu,” a message from the artisans intended for the watchmaker servicing the piece in the future.
The dial undergoes multiple rounds of painting and firing until the desired finish is achieved. The translucent enamel reveals the intricate guilloché beneath. This technique is reminiscent of the flinqué enamel popular in 19th and early 20th-century Europe. After firing and cooling, artisans polish the surface with diamond paste to achieve a mirrored finish.
The hour markers present another technical triumph. Artisans use 18k white gold to create each marker and individually rivet it to the enamel dial. They achieve this by employing a precision laser to create minute holes in the enamel without causing damage. This innovative method sets the Louis Vuitton Escale apart, as most enamel dials rely on printed hour markers.
The Escale’s attention to detail extends to its hands and indices. Craftsmen skillfully shaped the hour and minute hands like lances using 18k white gold. At the same time, to ensure both functionality and durability, they chose lightweight titanium for the seconds hand, balancing aesthetics with performance. This material choice ensures optimal performance, as the seconds hand’s continuous motion places additional demands on the watch’s movement.
Encased in platinum, the Escale draws inspiration from Louis Vuitton’s legendary trunks, with “rivet” lugs echoing the corners of these iconic designs. A sapphire display back reveals the precision mechanics within, offering a glimpse of the LFT023 chronometer calibre. La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton collaborated with Le Cercle des Horlogers to develop this mechanism. Certified by the Geneva Observatory for accuracy, it ensures performance within -4/+6 seconds per day. Each Escale watch bears a discreet rose gold plaque on its case back, engraved with its unique serial number. Limited to just 50 pieces, this exclusive collection showcases exceptional artistry and precision. It reflects the innovation that Louis Vuitton brings to the craft of fine watchmaking.
this is stunning! But that blue colour is terrible, i want it to be something more louis vuitton… and this reminds so much of the Van Cleef blue