For its FW25 collection, rokh explores the interplay between construction and deconstruction and sculptural form converges with organic movement. Rok Hwang, the creative force behind rokh, continues his exploration of silhouette, pushing the boundaries between structured tailoring and extravagant forms that echo the essence of sculpture. This season, the collection achieves a balance between precise craftsmanship and the unpredictable beauty of abstraction, drawing inspiration from the dynamic contours of ceramics.
The FW25 presentation, set against the backdrop of a deconstructed old French maison, reinforces the collection’s central theme. The venue itself mirrors rokh’s philosophy, a setting where past and present meld, where carefully preserved remnants of history intertwine with raw, unfinished surfaces. This deliberate contrast emphasizes the duality at play: the tension between refinement and disarray.
The FW25 silhouettes navigate this dichotomy through masterful tailoring and experimental draping. Garments are sculpted into exaggerated yet precise forms, creating silhouettes that straddle the controlled and the unrestrained. Layered compositions, structural interventions, and dynamic volumes endow each piece with a sense of motion, an illusion of continual transformation that evokes the tactile nature of clay in a sculptor’s hands. Wool fabrics, traditionally emblematic of structure, are molded into floral sculptural shapes, while dotted patterns and abstract floral motifs introduce a sense of ephemeral weightlessness.
This season also sees the introduction of sculptural body pieces integrated into the collection, manifesting as physical representations of restraint and release. These structured forms stand in stark contrast to movement-inspired pieces, creating a visual conversation between expansion and containment.
Fabrication plays a pivotal role in articulating the collection’s conceptual foundation. This season, ro h pushes the boundaries of textile manipulation, molding fabric into sculptural floral forms, transforming rigid materials into delicate, organic shapes that mimic the fluidity of nature. The collection also pays homage to couture craftsmanship, extensively studying the movement of draped fabric on the body. By revisiting time-honored techniques, rokh reinterprets traditional draping with a modern perspective, considering how the folds and cascades of fabric respond to motion and light.
The exploration of print also plays a crucial role, particularly through the reinvention of the classic dot pattern. By experimenting with its placement, scale, and layering, rokh creates an elegant illusion of movement, where the print itself seems to shift and flow, enhancing the kinetic energy of the garments.
Accessories within the collection extend the dialogue on transformation. Deconstructed and reassembled bags, inspired by vintage treasures found in Portobello Market, are reimagined through rokh’s experimental lens. Each bag, through its layered reconfiguration, embodies the philosophy of reinvention, where the past is not only preserved but reconstructed into something entirely new. Footwear follows the same principle, through the integration of breathable mesh and sculptural soles, the design embodies both function and artistry.
The collection challenges sartorial archetypes, presenting garments that shift, mold, and evolve, just as a sculptor refines a form from raw material.
