At Paris Fashion Week, Japanese designer Junya Watanabe showcased his FW25 collection, once again affirming his taste for the punk rock aesthetic and his mastery in the art of fashion origami. Known for his unorthodox approaches, Watanabe seized the opportunity to explore the intersection of conventional fashion forms and geometric abstraction.
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The runway presentation opened with a series of ensembles that transformed traditional black leather into an array of glossy, structured forms. Essential motorcycle jackets were reimagined with geometric precision, featuring triangular, hexagonal, and square implants that redefined the human silhouette. This radical manipulation of shapes set the tone for the collection, presenting a stark contrast to typical fashion norms and emphasizing a combination of high fashion with avant-garde craftsmanship.
As the show progressed, Watanabe introduced a redefined version of the trench coat. The familiar form was distorted into three-dimensional sculptures that challenged the boundaries of fabric manipulation. Models appeared almost engulfed by the garments, with spherical fur and exaggerated puffer jackets that took on abstract and unconventional forms.
The final looks were particularly striking, featuring paneled tuxedos that epitomized the collection’s thematic focus on cubism and structural experimentation. Watanabe described his work as an attempt to create “everyday clothing from a cubist perspective,” a philosophy that was vividly reflected in the construction and innovative design of each garment.
Accompanying the clothing were notable collaborations that enhanced the collection’s punk rock credentials, including Dr. Martens boots and a singular pair of Levi’s denim pants. These partnerships were integrated into the collection, reinforcing the edgy and rebellious spirit that Watanabe’s designs often evoke. The show also featured a soundtrack by Jimi Hendrix, with tracks like “Straight Ahead” and “Astro Man” that complemented the collection’s energy.
The backstage elements contributed significantly to the overall impact of the show, with hair by Eugene Souleiman and makeup by Isamaya Ffrench, each adding layers of drama to the models’ looks. This season, Junya Watanabe not only continued to push the boundaries of fashion design but also solidified his position as a master of modern avant-garde, whose work is as much about challenging perceptions as it is about crafting garments.
the wigs dress top is just everything! Junya Watanabe and his team know what they are doing! <3 this is so gorgeouuuus