Comme des Garçons Homme Plus unveiled its Fall Winter 2026 collection, titled Black Hole, that examines confinement and the possibility of exit through menswear form. The idea of the black hole functions as a condition shaping how tailoring, proportion, and surface operate throughout the collection.
FALL WINTER 2026.27 MENSWEAR
Rei Kawakubo approaches classic menswear as a structure under pressure. Jackets, coats, and suits appear reconfigured through cuts, openings, and layered construction that expose interior elements. Tailoring no longer acts as a closed system that defines the body from the outside. Garments frame the body through interruption, allowing inner layers, skin, and construction to remain visible. The focus shifts from finish to structure, bringing attention to how clothes hold and release form.
Familiar silhouettes remain present but altered. Jackets retain recognisable outlines while presenting split fronts, folded sections, and doubled components that interrupt symmetry. Trousers and suits extend into unfamiliar proportions, at times approaching dress-like forms or layered assemblies.
Styling reinforces this instability. Masks and sculptural wigs reduce facial identity, redirecting attention toward silhouette and garment logic. Clothing operates independently of expression, allowing form to take precedence. Footwear introduces language as a visual element, with text applied directly onto polished surfaces. The presence of words adds a graphic layer that grounds the abstraction in direct communication.
Material treatment relies on layered fabrics, zipped understructures, and extended panels. These elements create dense constructions that alter how garments rest on the body. Tailoring appears combined with added layers and visible internal components across multiple looks.
Contrast plays a defining role across the collection. Black and white function as structural tools, clarifying cuts, volumes, and surface relief. The restrained palette sharpens focus on construction, allowing changes in form to register clearly.
