In a departure from its Parisian roots, Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Fall Winter 2024 collection takes place in New York City, marking the brand’s inaugural runway show outside of France. The collection is an homage to the artist Robert Mapplethorpe, whose iconic work serves as a inspiration for the brand’s creative direction. By combining Mapplethorpe’s distinct aesthetic with the label’s signature style, the runway becomes a canvas for exploring the enigmatic interplay between innocence and dark eroticism, a theme explored in Mapplethorpe’s own reflections on beauty and temptation.
Collaborating closely with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, founded by the artist himself in 1988, Ludovic de Saint Sernin brings select images from Mapplethorpe’s extensive archive to life in a bold interplay of art and fashion. With a sense of reverence, the collection breathes new life into the characters and narratives from Mapplethorpe’s works, offering a contemporary reinterpretation of his vision. “In my own fantasy, this was a collaboration with him,” reflects de Saint Sernin, underscoring the deeply personal and symbiotic relationship between the designer and the late artist.
Drawing inspiration from Mapplethorpe’s dual personas, the collection navigates the juxtaposition between uptown glamour and downtown edge with masterful precision. Evoking the opulent decadence of 80s power dressing, the runway showcases tailored trench coats, hourglass silhouettes, and asymmetrical leather shift dresses, with sophistication and sensuality reminiscent of Mapplethorpe’s imagery. From hand-cut velvet appliqués inspired by Mapplethorpe’s flower portraits to intricate leather harnesses paying homage to his exploration of BDSM culture, each garment and accessory in the collection serves as an expression of the artist’s multifaceted legacy.
See the full collection in the Gallery below:
Wow wow 🤩