As the Fall/Winter Fashion Month draws to a close and we reflect on the impressions left, it’s evident that the most memorable shows are those incorporating a gimmicky element that captures online attention. Reviewing AVAVAV‘s Fall/Winter 2024 runway in Milan, models were pelted with waste and empty packaging, while remnants of food adorned the collection’s garments, their somber expressions emphasized by makeup simulating a post-aesthetic augmentation look, complete with bruises, bandages, and smudged makeup. Simultaneously, in the background, Instagram hate comments critiquing the showcased collection were projected, adding a layer of commentary to the event. The remnants of waste strewn across the floor provided a striking visual contrast and further fueled the potential for image reproduction on social media platforms, contributing to the creation of a meta-narrative surrounding the show.
Likewise, Diesel and Balenciaga leaned into familiar visuals from the digital world, simulating a zoom call and infamous doomscrolling, sparking controversy over perceived similarities in their runways despite differing concepts. Diesel’s Glenn Martens ingeniously incorporated the digital ambiance directly into the collection, by prominently featuring garments adorned with the print of participants from the zoom call in question.
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In contrast, Vetements‘ collection at Paris Fashion Week was a compilation of potential viral moments, featuring peak meme material such as Anwar Hadid wearing a “Not Mom’s Favorite” oversized T-shirt, prompting online speculation about provocation between the brand’s creative director, Guram Gvasalia, and his brother Demna, with whom he co-founded the brand in 2014. The cast notably featured Georgina Rodriguez, donning a customized version of her husband’s jersey, embellished with his signature. Also in attendance were the controversial Serbian singer Jelena Karleusa, and Berlin it-girl Ivana Vladislava, both renowned figures within online communities.
The Row took a different approach by banning any form of audience documentation. In an era where social media promotion reigns supreme, this decision, when publicized online, served as a perfect PR campaign with a significant response. However, the ability to abstain from social media exposure is a privilege afforded only to certain brands, which can confidently reject creating their own viral TikTok content while still achieving financial success, thanks to loyal consumer bases.
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Designers have also shown a propensity for following trending aesthetics, integrating them into their collections. Ottolinger‘s FW24 displayed elements of trending corpcore/office siren aesthetics, while Dilara Findikoglu and Simone Rocha embraced bows and corsets from the Coquette aesthetic, and Sandy Liang drew inspiration from balletcore.
While the social media presence of a brand undoubtedly holds significant importance in today’s digital age, it is not the sole determinant of success. The case studies presented demonstrate the complex interaction between online visibility, brand identity, and consumer engagement. While some brands successfully leverage social media to build hype and engage with audiences, others navigate alternative routes to prominence, such as banning documentation or relying on loyal consumer bases. Ultimately, while a strong social media presence can undoubtedly amplify brand visibility and consumer consciousness, it is the quality of attention, brand integrity, and sales performance that truly define success in the competitive landscape of the fashion industry.
av av av is a gimmick all the way !