UNDERCOVER presents its Men’s Resort 2026 collection by returning to the codes Jun Takahashi has shaped since founding the label in 1993. What began in Tokyo’s underground punk scene continues to develop through hybrid silhouettes, technical precision, and visual contradiction.
This season, Takahashi focuses on reworking familiar ideas through subtle shifts. Deconstructed tailoring defines the collection, where nothing lands exactly where expected. Each piece avoids flash but includes details that surface over time: closures that fold differently, sleeves that shift proportion, silhouettes that challenge uniformity without abandoning clarity.
A standout theme in the collection reinterprets vintage pajama forms. Takahashi softens the shape of shirts, blazers, and trousers without losing construction. Mandarin-style collars and knotted buttons offer alternatives to rigid tailoring. These garments follow a loose, fluid line but maintain structure through fabric choice and proportion.
He also introduces lightweight nylon cargo pants, cut for ease. The trousers carry utilitarian features, pockets, movement, surface, but shift away from their rigid origin. Their loose structure and technical fabric turn them into something built for movement rather than display. This balance between design and use stays close to UNDERCOVER’s core.
Comfort continues to guide the collection. Wide shorts, oversized cardigans, and washed shirts with graphic embroidery ground the collection in daily wear, while long slouchy trousers and distressed knitwear keep the silhouettes generous but focused. Footwear stays understated and consistent, pairing each look with low-profile black slippers.
The collection moves through olive, beige, washed black, white, and deep red with minimal surface noise. Graphic elements appear, but sparingly: patches, stitched figures, and small handwritten phrases interrupt clean shirts or knitwear.
Across the collection, he reframes theatricality. Volume comes through wide sleeves, sloped shoulders, and layered collars rather than embellishment. Visual tension arises from proportion, how a heavy knit offsets crisp white pants or how a boxy jacket hangs over shorts with sharp vertical seams.
The set styling, photographed against a saturated, dry pink terrain, adds an abstract texture that complements rather than overwhelms the garments. The muted palette and easy structure gain dimension against this saturated environment, without losing their original precision. UNDERCOVER Resort 2026 presents a focused menswear collection that holds together through contrast, technical softness, refined volume, and carefully off-balance tailoring.
