There are dishes that satisfy, and then there are dishes that take up permanent residence in your mind. At Café Mulberry, the newly opened French-inspired restaurant perched above the celebrated cocktail lounge The Mulberry in NoLita, the Croque Madame belongs firmly in the latter category. If you’re searching for the definitive version of this French classic in New York City, your search may have just ended, though part of me wishes I could keep this discovery to myself.
Saturday Morning, Just Before Ten
We arrived at Café Mulberry on a Saturday morning, a little before 10 AM, timing that proved ideal for experiencing the restaurant in its most authentic state. Justin Sievers, one of the three co-founders, was already on the floor, welcoming the first guests of the day with the kind of genuine hospitality that sets the tone for everything that follows. The team radiated an eagerness to start the day, a quality that translated into attentive, warm service without a hint of pretension.
The space filled quickly, perhaps the proof to the buzz already surrounding this new addition to the downtown dining scene. Yet even as tables populated, the atmosphere remained unhurried, inviting guests to settle in rather than rush through.
The Menu: Tight, Considered, and Exceptional
Chef Nicole Gajadhar, the culinary mind behind Café Mulberry‘s offerings, has crafted a menu that exemplifies restraint in the best possible way. Every dish feels intentional, each item earning its place on a compact roster that prioritizes quality over quantity.
The daytime menu opens with Bread, Butter & Radishes, a deceptively simple beginning that signals the kitchen’s respect for ingredients. From there, morning staples unfold: the Sandwich du Matin with jambon, egg, gruyère, espelette butter, and fig jam; perfectly soft-boiled Egg Soldiers with chive; a rotating Quiche du Jour; and a Tartine featuring smoked salmon with avocado, remoulade, dill, and shallots.
RESTAURANTS TO VISIT
But the signatures anchor the experience. The Jambon Beurre on baguette delivers classic French simplicity, while the Croque Monsieur, served on brioche with béchamel and gruyère, sets the stage for its more indulgent sibling.
The Croque Madame: A Revelation
Add an egg to that Croque Monsieur, and you have what may be one of the finest Croque Madames available in New York City. The bread base provides a richness that elevates the dish beyond standard iterations, while the béchamel and gruyère create a harmony of textures, creamy, melted, and satisfying without veering into heaviness. The egg, perfectly cooked, crowns the creation with a golden yolk that, when broken, cascades into the layers below.
This is the dish Café Mulberry should become a destination for. It’s the kind of preparation that makes you understand why the French perfected the art of the sandwich, and why New Yorkers will make the pilgrimage to NoLita specifically for this experience. If there’s a single item that justifies Café Mulberry’s existence as a standalone concept, it’s this one.
The Quiche du Jour proved equally impressive, a perfect match for a breakfast that feels filling yet remarkably light. The rotating nature of the quiche adds an element of discovery to repeat visits, though the Croque Madame will likely remain the constant draw.
Drinks: The Fraise Fraiche and Beyond
The beverage program complements the food with equal thoughtfulness. The Fraise Fraiche emerged as the ideal post-breakfast aperitif, light, refreshing, and perfectly calibrated for the transition from morning meal to midday. The coffee counter, proudly serving SEY Roasters, handles the caffeine requirements with expertise, while the Champagne and wine offerings (including frosé, a creation of Sievers himself) extend the possibilities for those inclined toward something more celebratory.
Design: Paris in NoLita
Step through the door of Café Mulberry, and New York momentarily disappears. The interior transports you to a hidden Parisian restaurant, the kind of place you might stumble upon in the Marais or Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Warm wood floors ground the space, while soft globe lighting creates an intimate glow. Marble café tables and deep banquettes invite lingering, and patterned wallpaper by Morris & Co adds layers of visual interest without overwhelming the senses. A striking green marble bar anchors the room, balancing timeless European sensibility with distinctly New York energy.
The Philosophy: Connection Over Convenience
Café Mulberry maintains a strict no-laptop policy, a deliberate choice that positions the restaurant as a pause from the city’s pace rather than another co-working space in disguise. This is a room designed for conversation, for French presses and unhurried exchanges, for resetting before stepping back into the noise. The philosophy aligns with The Mulberry’s ethos of genuine connection, translated from nightlife hours into the morning-to-evening scene.
The Team Behind the Concept
The trio behind Café Mulberry, Leo Jacob (celebrity portrait photographer and strategic advisor/partner at Savas), Phil Meynell (creative director), and Justin Sievers (partner at Bar Primi), conceived this concept as part of downtown’s ongoing renaissance. Having established The Mulberry as a beloved nightlife destination, they’ve now set their sights on capturing the same buzzy, insider energy for the hours when the city runs on caffeine instead of cocktails.
“The Mulberry became exactly what downtown needed, a nightlife spot for New Yorkers to feel at home and for visitors seeking out authentic New York cool,” shared Leo Jacob. “Café Mulberry captures that same spirit, just translated for the hours when the city runs on caffeine instead of cocktails.“
Discover more of Cafe Mulberry in our gallery:
The Details
Address: 240 Mulberry Street, NoLita, New York
Hours: Monday–Friday: 8am–10pm | Saturday–Sunday: 9am–10pm
Instagram: @cafemulberrynyc
Reservations: Available via Resy
The street-facing counter serves coffee, pastries, and baguettes from La Bicyclette Bakery for those seeking a quick grab-and-go option, while the full-service restaurant accommodates those who prefer to stay awhile.
Café Mulberry succeeds in translating The Mulberry’s “if you know, you know” exclusivity into a daytime format that feels both accessible and special. The tight menu, exceptional execution, and transportive design create an experience worth seeking out. But if you take away one thing from this review, let it be this: the Croque Madame at Café Mulberry may be the best in New York City. Go for the atmosphere, stay for the French Onion Soup and Salade Verte, but order the Croque Madame. You’ll understand why it lives rent-free in my mind, and soon enough, it will live rent-free in yours too.
