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Vetements Turns 2000s Nostalgia Into a Familiar Runway Formula

Vetements Turns 2000s Nostalgia Into a Familiar Runway Formula

June 29, 2026
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Vetements Turns 2000s Nostalgia Into a Familiar Runway Formula

Guram Gvasalia leaned on oversized silhouettes and celebrity casting, with Sean Preston and Jayden Federline making their runway debut.

June 29, 2026
in Male Models, Menswear, Paris Fashion Week, Spring Summer 2027 Menswear, Vetements
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Vetements SS27, Courtesy of Vetements

Vetements Spring Summer 2027 arrived with the ingredients for a memorable show: an underground venue, a cast filled with recognizable names and the runway debut of Britney Spears‘ sons, Sean Preston and Jayden Federline. Guram Gvasalia staged the presentation beneath the Novotel Paris Centre Tour Eiffel, placing the collection inside a raw concrete setting that matched the house’s familiar visual language. The premise focused on everyday clothing pushed into exaggerated proportions, although the concept rarely moved beyond territory Vetements has explored for years.

SPRING SUMMER 2027

Gvasalia built the collection around recognizable staples including jeans, tanks, coats, tailoring and oversized shirting. Strong shoulders, elongated silhouettes and heavy fabrics created an imposing presence, yet many looks felt closer to established Vetements signatures than a genuine step forward. The oversized formula still carries impact, but its sense of disruption has inevitably faded through repetition.

Vetements SS27, Courtesy of Vetements

The show’s biggest talking point came from the casting rather than the clothes. Sean Preston and Jayden Federline, the sons of Britney Spears and Kevin Federline, made their runway debut, instantly drawing attention beyond the collection itself. Their appearance tapped into renewed fascination with early 2000s pop culture and Spears’ lasting influence. While the casting fit naturally within Vetements’ fascination with celebrity and cultural memory, it occasionally overshadowed the garments it was meant to support.

Sean Preston wore a floor-length black silk coat with structured shoulders, patch detailing and a backward black silk tie over loose bootcut jeans. Jayden appeared in a white tank, heavily faded denim, a thick brown belt with an oversized buckle and a trailing silver keychain. Both looks reflected the collection’s emphasis on familiar wardrobe pieces filtered through exaggerated styling, although neither introduced a particularly fresh direction.

Courtesy of Vetements

The supporting cast added further recognition. Alek Wek, Carmen Kass, Sasha Pivovarova and Sharon Stone walked the runway, while Olivia Palermo, Natalia Vodianova, Stella Maxwell and North West attended the show. The presentation often felt driven by personalities and references, reinforcing the sense that the event itself carried as much weight as the collection.

Vetements has always operated through cultural sampling, irony and deliberate exaggeration. Those instincts remain intact here, but Spring Summer 2027 sometimes relied too heavily on established codes. The oversized tailoring, distressed denim and confrontational styling still communicate the brand’s identity, yet they rarely delivered the surprise that once defined Vetements at its strongest.

Vetements SS27, Courtesy of Vetements

The collection succeeded in creating conversation, largely through casting and nostalgia. The clothes remained wearable within the house’s vocabulary, but they struggled to escape the feeling of familiarity. Rather than marking a clear evolution, Spring Summer 2027 felt like another variation on a formula that has become increasingly predictable.

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Tags: PFWss27
Katarina Doric

Katarina Doric

The COO and Features Director of DSCENE Publishing, Katarina Doric oversees editorial direction across all DSCENE platforms. With a background in architecture, her work connects fashion, art, and design through a critical lens. She is the author of the Doric Order column, where she examines the politics of aesthetics, womanhood, and culture, and leads DSCENE’s international cultural projects.

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