• Latest
#STYLE: The Story Of AMERICANA

#STYLE: The Story Of AMERICANA

December 18, 2016
IKEA Gustaf Westman

IKEA and Gustaf Westman Reveal Playful Tableware Line

September 9, 2025
Jonas

Jonas Brothers Bring Holiday Chaos to Disney+ in New Comedy

September 9, 2025
Gentle Monster and Sister Brands Launch HAUS NOWHERE SEOUL

Gentle Monster and Sister Brands Launch HAUS NOWHERE SEOUL

September 9, 2025
Rosalía

Rosalía is the Face of Calvin Klein Fall 2025 Underwear Collection

September 9, 2025
Dunk Black Pink Rise

Nike Dunk Low Black Pink Rise Drops September 11, 2025

September 9, 2025
Anne Imhof Teams Up with Nike for T90 Jersey

Anne Imhof Teams Up with Nike for T90 Jersey

September 9, 2025
Jordan 3 El Vuelo

Air Jordan 3 El Vuelo Honors Lucha Libre Tradition

September 9, 2025
Neo.Fashion 2025

Emerging Designers Shine at Neo.Fashion 2025

September 9, 2025
Justin Bieber Drops SWAG II With Expansive Tracklist

Justin Bieber Drops SWAG II With Expansive Tracklist

September 9, 2025
Shanghai Experience Brings PUMA x Rosé Collection to Life

Shanghai Experience Brings PUMA x Rosé Collection to Life

September 9, 2025
Zadig&Voltaire Welcomes Paris Jackson as New Ambassador

Zadig&Voltaire Welcomes Paris Jackson as New Ambassador

September 9, 2025
adidas and BAPE Team Up for Soccer Collection

adidas and BAPE Team Up for Soccer Collection

September 9, 2025
DSCENE
  • LATEST
  • FASHION
    • Ad Campaigns
    • Collections
      • Spring Summer 2026 Womenswear
      • Spring Summer 2026 Menswear
      • Fall Winter 2025.26 Womenswear
      • Fall Winter 2025.26 Menswear
      • Pre-Fall 2025 Collections
      • Spring Summer 2025 Womenswear
      • Spring Summer 2025 Menswear
      • Couture Collections
      • Bridal Collections
      • Capsule Collections
    • Jewelry
    • Lookbooks
    • Street Style
    • Backstage
    • Directory
      • Agencies
        • Creative Talent Agencies
        • Modelling Agencies
      • Brands
      • Photographers
      • Fashion Stylists
      • Hair Stylists
      • Makeup Artists
      • Female Models
      • Male Models
  • SNEAKERS
  • MAGAZINES
    • DSCENE Magazine
    • MMSCENE Magazine
    • EDITORIALS
  • EXCLUSIVE
    • Interviews
    • Exclusive
  • TRAVEL
    • Hotels
    • Restaurants
  • ART
    • Art
    • Design
      • Furniture
    • Architecture
      • Interior Design
  • SHOP
    • ABOUT
No Result
View All Result
DSCENE
  • LATEST
  • FASHION
    • Ad Campaigns
    • Collections
      • Spring Summer 2026 Womenswear
      • Spring Summer 2026 Menswear
      • Fall Winter 2025.26 Womenswear
      • Fall Winter 2025.26 Menswear
      • Pre-Fall 2025 Collections
      • Spring Summer 2025 Womenswear
      • Spring Summer 2025 Menswear
      • Couture Collections
      • Bridal Collections
      • Capsule Collections
    • Jewelry
    • Lookbooks
    • Street Style
    • Backstage
    • Directory
      • Agencies
        • Creative Talent Agencies
        • Modelling Agencies
      • Brands
      • Photographers
      • Fashion Stylists
      • Hair Stylists
      • Makeup Artists
      • Female Models
      • Male Models
  • SNEAKERS
  • MAGAZINES
    • DSCENE Magazine
    • MMSCENE Magazine
    • EDITORIALS
  • EXCLUSIVE
    • Interviews
    • Exclusive
  • TRAVEL
    • Hotels
    • Restaurants
  • ART
    • Art
    • Design
      • Furniture
    • Architecture
      • Interior Design
  • SHOP
    • ABOUT
No Result
View All Result
DSCENE
No Result
View All Result

#STYLE: The Story Of AMERICANA

December 18, 2016
in Design, DSCENE MAGAZINE, Exclusive
0
Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

SARAH WALDRON covers the sentiment of Americana while discussing the rise of this all familiar style and its effects on the fashion industry for the latest issue of D’SCENE Magazine. 

Think ‘Americana’ and you’ll probably think about the last two and a half centuries. Star-spangled banners. GIs. Rock and roll. A glass bottle of Coke on a hot day, one perfect drop of water beading its way down, navigating its Belle Epoque curves. Aggressive partisan politics and overseas wars. Still, now, people think of these things whenever the home of the brave and the land of the free heaves into the periphery.

But that’s not really what Americana is. It is the red, white and blue – of course it is – but it’s also the dark and the light; a land in which nature took precedence over God, and communities were formed on a much smaller scale.While Native Americans were quickly beaten back by disease, colonial might and cultural ignorance on the East coast, by the mid-nineteenth century they were still a force to be reckoned with. But not for long.

In the fashion world, Americana has come to represent a sartorial mix of white settlers and Native American design, encapsulating the moment when one frontier surged forth to meet the other. In 1862, the American Homestead Act sold pockets of land in faraway states for a pittance and 600,000 families went to meet the West. Others inevitably followed, which lead to conflict, mutual distrust, violence and the eventual marginalisation and abuse of an entire race of people.

It’s so odd that fashion, an ostensibly shallow medium, would offer a more accurate and evocative visual reading of the world ‘Americana’ than other, more prominent cultural method of communications (think literature and art), but there you are. Fashion can surprise you sometimes. And while it’s far from perfect in its representation of the duality of old and new cultures at war, it’s still much better than the alternative.

Prairie chic – as seen on the catwalk at Simone Rocha, Alexander McQueen and Coach – translates to a hardy utilitarian demureness. Hardworking fabrics meet feminine ruffles, Victoriana high-necked collars and buttoned up exteriors. In fresh virginal white marked spots of handworked lace or wildflower print, these dresses are a straightforward interpretation of actual period designs worn by homesteaders making their way steadily across the plains. For Spring/Summer at Erdem, the trend went a little deeper, delving into the psychological affliction known as ‘prairie madness’, which manifested itself in settling men and women who found the approaching landscape too bleak, too isolating, too harsh and indifferent. Reminding us that the women of the prairie could be suppressed and not free-spirited, the delicately wrought dresses prioritised delicacy over the prairie’s typically hardy appearance. Floral pieces with a surplus of layers had an air of elegant, deconstructed decay – the foundation wardrobe of a Ms. Havisham of the plains.

Native American garments are often nauseatingly appropriated and repurposed as festival gear (war bonnets at Coachella, anyone?) but there has historically been some crossover between settlers and tribes. Beads and blankets were big sellers. In the southwestern states of America, the Navajo nation were known for their instantly recognisable woven blankets and rugs, as well as the silver and turquoise jewellery that we see so many different permutations of on the high street today. Used, worn and traded with white settlers, these motifs bled into the Americana image, mixing the fashion DNA of settlers with Native Americans. Unfortunately, this remains as close to an entente as the two groups would ever get.

In fact, ‘navajo’ has become an overarching and incredibly inaccurate term for all Native American or even vaguely abstract Native American-inspired designs. In 2011, the Navajo Nation filed a lawsuit against American retailer Forever 21 asking for a percentage of profits from the brand’s Navajo line. In May of this year, they lost the lawsuit, the judge ruling that ‘navajo’ was, in fact, a blanket term and that the nation themselves were not famous enough to merit a trademark – all this despite the obvious fact that their designs were indeed famous enough to become universally known. It’s a very modern kind of legal exploitation.

When it comes to Americana, notions of femininity are also picked apart. People had no choice to be anything but physically hardy, so ruffled and frilled clothing was built to withstand harsh conditions. Dresses were made to be worn with clodhopper boots. Ankle-flashing hems were raised scandalously, inches above the socially accepted, floor-sweeping norm, to facilitate a greater range of movement movement and restrict the tracking of mud, dust and rain from place to place. In this way, mental and physical toughness became part of the American style vocabulary, and this wouldn’t change until the post-War era. Swooning Southern belles, despite their cartoonish femininity, are not very Americana. Here, being womanly also involved strength and fortitude – something that is very much a part of contemporary American can-do consciousness.

The weight of history can be almost unbearable, and when you throw more than a dollop of colonialism into the mix… Well, Altas would still struggle. And yet, Americana fashion – true, original Americana; a protracted clash of settler and Native American – can still be encapsulated by the simple visual of one woman in one simple outfit. A white dress. A patterned shawl. A pair of boots.

Words by Sarah Waldron (Twitter/Instagram), illustration by Shira Barzilay @koketit
Originally published in D’SCENE Magazine 06 – OUT NOW

GET YOUR COPY IN PRINT & DIGITAL $4.90

Tags: Reading Time
admin

admin

Related Posts

IKEA Gustaf Westman
Design

IKEA and Gustaf Westman Reveal Playful Tableware Line

September 9, 2025
Gentle Monster and Sister Brands Launch HAUS NOWHERE SEOUL
Art

Gentle Monster and Sister Brands Launch HAUS NOWHERE SEOUL

September 9, 2025
Sticker
Design

Sticker Guide: Die Cut vs Kiss Cut and How to Choose

September 8, 2025
Geometry in Motion: Dieffebi’s OBA Collection
Design

Geometry in Motion: Dieffebi’s OBA Collection

September 4, 2025

dscene

Subscribe To Our Newsletter

DSCENE

DSCENE is curated as a daily art, design, fashion & lifestyle destination. DSCENE is non-for-profit fashion and culture basis organization which aims at further development of research on DSCENE values, as well as on providing educational services. Home of magazine editions DSCENE and MMSCENE – Click for more about DSCENE and for our Terms of Service.

Subscribe Our Newsletter

© 2024 DSCENE Publishing. All rights reserved.

Welcome Back!

Login to your account below

Forgotten Password?

Retrieve your password

Please enter your username or email address to reset your password.

Log In

Add New Playlist

No Result
View All Result
  • LATEST
  • FASHION
    • Ad Campaigns
    • Collections
      • Spring Summer 2026 Womenswear
      • Spring Summer 2026 Menswear
      • Fall Winter 2025.26 Womenswear
      • Fall Winter 2025.26 Menswear
      • Pre-Fall 2025 Collections
      • Spring Summer 2025 Womenswear
      • Spring Summer 2025 Menswear
      • Couture Collections
      • Bridal Collections
      • Capsule Collections
    • Jewelry
    • Lookbooks
    • Street Style
    • Backstage
    • Directory
      • Agencies
      • Brands
      • Photographers
      • Fashion Stylists
      • Hair Stylists
      • Makeup Artists
      • Female Models
      • Male Models
  • SNEAKERS
  • MAGAZINES
    • DSCENE Magazine
    • MMSCENE Magazine
    • EDITORIALS
  • EXCLUSIVE
    • Interviews
    • Exclusive
  • TRAVEL
    • Hotels
    • Restaurants
  • ART
    • Art
    • Design
      • Furniture
    • Architecture
      • Interior Design
  • SHOP
    • ABOUT
This website uses cookies. By continuing to use this website you are giving consent to cookies being used. Visit our Privacy and Cookie Policy.