Tourne de Transmission presented Autumn Winter 2018 collection during the ongoing London Fashion Week Men’s. Inspired by humanity’s interest in exploration, the collection is balancing between eastern and western fashion.
Discovery is always at the forefront of my mind when starting each collection – looking at new cultures & customs each season in order to learn how they interact with clothing. The clash of ideals between east and west and how the clothing is informed via social, industrial and often political division. Photographer Leah Gordon’s book ‘Kanaval’ sparked my own voyage of discovery this season. The book documents the carnivals of south Haiti in their various forms over a period of years. Outside of Gordon’s incredibly visceral documentation of these rituals, it struck me how the people of Haiti used the theatrical elements of Kanaval to offer reminders to the authorities about their failings through the abuse of power. The sartorial traditions of Kanaval have also been pivotal in shaping this collection. From the use of materials and fabrics, through to the shapes and silhouettes. Tailoring has been cut with an unorthodox fit, inspired by the Haitian boys in Gordon’s images who wear mens suiting. They give a flat 2D shape when worn, echoing back to questions on 2D tourism. The juxtaposition of femininity across the men’s outfits of Kanaval are also reflected via fabrics, pleats and shapes. In addition artist and long term collaborator Johnny Brophy has constructed broaches and accessories mirroring elements of decoration & masquerade from Kanaval. Keen’s Uneek open air footwear is also used for their adaptation of intricate detailing, complimenting and reflecting other hand made elements seen across range. – Graeme Gaughan, Creative Director