Discover MOSCHINO‘s Spring Summer 2019 collection, presented at Milan Fashion Week. Moschino presents a collection built around the work Jeremy did have the time to get together: a finished article made of the work in progress.
Discover more after the jump:
Wait, what, it’s showtime? Already? Uh-oh… Fashion today moves so darned crazy fast; pre, cruise, capsules, collabs… delivery, delivery, delivery – nonstop drops.
For Spring Summer 2019 it’s accelerated to such a lunatic pace that Jeremy Scott simply didn’t have time to complete the collection. We’re sorry, but it’s true. Jeremy’s been burning the candle at both ends, working like a trooper from dawn ‘til dusk, and only sometimes grabbing a few hours’ shut-eye on his sketching desk. But the fashion calendar stops for no one, and now, uh-oh, it’s showtime.
So, this season, Moschino presents a collection built around the work Jeremy did have the time to get together: a finished article made of the work in progress.
It begins in the Moschino atelier. Scott’s sketches come to life. The chic chemisiers, devastating-lady tailoring, pussy bow blouses, and full arsenal of super-sexy, super-bourgeois day-dresses that Scott has been sketching spring forth onto the runway. Sure, they’re not quite done. The urgent gestural outlines and back-and-forth colorings-in of Scott’s sketching has been translated to the garments in a color palette that’s Sharpie meets Stabilo Boss. Even the pantyhose are marked by Scott’s scribble.
You can see where Scott intended a day dress to come in some sophisticated fabrication of polka dot, or a bow-garlanded suit was supposed to be expressed in a lady-who-lunches bouclé, or a PVC skirt or rain jacket was meant to come block-colored. But, hey, no time. So instead it’s delivered just as Scott drew it. Some decoration is more fully realised; a sketched-heart and Moschino dévoré print, some powerful stripes, a roughly-colored in rendition of a classic Moschino chain print, and a pretty animalia pattern that reaches only a certain way down the skirt of the dress Scott was coloring-in when the show started.
Presenting sketch-dresses, though – is that enough? In case it ain’t Scott has ingeniously fashioned rolls of cloth into smoulderingly powerful evening wear. The dress comes with the roll still attached. There are some almost-fully-realised lace evening looks, whose notquite-doneness is only revealed by the sketch-strokes patterned into the fabric. In a moment of inspiration,
Scott has transformed the pattern-cutter’s scissors – usually a tool for sculpting the fabric of fashion – into a fabulous evening look. He’s picked up every golden needle on the floor of the atelier and turned them into a shimmering gown, complete with thimble hat. His studio mannequins have been picked apart put together again as tailored evening pieces, and a full look mannequin body-suit complete with a striking tape-measure through. Scott’s sketched scribble pattern returns, this time realised in beading and sequins on classic evening shapes. And then, of course, the closing look – here comes the bride! So beautiful: look at that puffskirt veil, that sweeping train….
But wait, what, are those giant butterflies following her down the runway?
Is this real life or is this just fantasy?