Designer Simona Marziali presented MRZ’s Spring Summer 2020 collection, inspired by Morocco and the Berber communities, that explores the men’s sense of freedom, on Thursday, September 19th, during the recently finished Milan Fashion Week.
“Complex aesthetical and cultural influences find a new synthesis in this collection able to redefine the archetypes through an original stream of thoughts.New shapes, forged to express the sense of freedom; chromatic syncretisms, to give back the sense of boundary, the search for limits. The apparently casual overlapping of the garments makes the woman free from standard rules; the use of simple geometrical drawings – typical of Berber carpets – is the result of the individual creativity of the women of the tribes who, over the centuries, have stratified a semiotics of colours.
The blue shades present in the fabrics and yarns with denim effects take after the city of Chefchaouen’s walls and contrast with strong and impactful graphics: the protagonists of the season. The iconic rhombus – typical pattern from the Moroccan carpets – make the collection’s items richer with embroideries, inlays and abundance of yarns which give three-dimensionality to the shapes and theatricality to the gestures.
Jackets, trousers and skirts made of vegetal fabrics – like linen and hemp – with a raw but sophisticated look – reflect the texture of Moroccan landscapes. Knitwear is once again the protagonist of the collection, in the form of wide and long pullovers with a large and irregular weave with an unfinished look. The shapes are modern and the volumes contained, the apparent randomness becomes a message of completeness. Double breasted blazers, waistcoats and trousers remind of men’s tailoring and matched with little lingerie details make the silhouette’s image softer giving it femininity and aspiration.“
Photography © Gianluca Carraro (showbit.info) for MRZ / Courtesy of Maximilian Linz