Discover Jonathan Simkhai‘s Fall Winter 2020.21 collection inspired by photographer Julius Shulman’s imagery of modernist architecture in Los Angeles, and designer’s own heritage, presented on Monday, February 10th, during the ongoing New York Fashion Week.
“I spent a lot of time admiring the works of photographer Julius Shulman. His imagery of modernist architecture in Los Angeles and his ability to reduce a subject to its raw form and essential lines helped me vision the clean silhouettes of this Fall collection. His way of connecting humanity and nature through constructions of geometric discipline led my design influences down a path of simple construction. With his seminal work in mind, I experimented a lot with interpretations of iconic wardrobe staples such as the trench coat. As we grew the collection we deconstructed and reconstructed the timeless item from various angles: color blocking contrast, faux fur and vegan leather applications, tailored pleating, and detachable design elements. There are sculpted faux fur sherpa coats, and cotton twill vegan leather combinations that all highlight an attention to modernized tailoring.
In an effort to counter balance these sharper silhouettes, I also drew inspiration from a more personal place; my family’s heritage as well as the stories from my parents growing up in Iran prior to the revolution of 1979. Listening to my parents speak of their days in Tehran always moved me. A time when people lived lives with less regulations on attire. When seeking higher education was the norm and more women had lives that mirrored the lives of men. Moved by the visuals and memories found within old family photos, I conceptualized so many details such as custom paisley jacquard with tonal woven interpretations and texture realized through tassels and fringe. Layered throughout the collection are wool coats with animal prints that are inspired by the wild mountain cats of Iran. The color palette intertwines with spices similar to those I grew up with; paprika, cardamom, and cumin juxtaposed against a new faded daffodil color seen throughout.“
Courtesy of © JONATHAN SIMKHAI / Karla Otto