Fashion Designer YUIMA NAKAZATO sits down for an exclusive interview with editor KATARINA DJORIC to talk about his new collection, sustainability, and his brand’s future.
What has changed in the past 10 years since you started your brand?
Nothing has changed in terms of what I want to express or achieve through design. That being said, now I have a knowledge, experience, and moreover, a team, to realize the creation which I didn’t have back then. Now I am confident to say that I can realize my design in a certain quality, and present those to the world.
What has encouraged you to keep designing over the past decade?
My fundamental motivation has been always making this world a better place through design, and nothing has changed on that point over this decade. In retrospect, I feel that inborn complex, or frustration towards the society, these negative emotion deep down within my self, somehow turns out to be a positive energy for my design and creation.
How did you create the concept for a new collection and what were some of the key inspirations behind it?
When I create a new collection, it always begin with finding the crossing point, between the brand’s vision/philosophy, and the flow of the era. To feel the sound, and to visualize it into a shape. I thought that doing this, in today’s visually-oriented society, would provide a hint for the next era, one, where we understand and empathize more with people that are different from ourselves. Voice makes up a vital factor of one’s character, and hearing someone speak could be soothing—after all, voice contains so much more than the mere physical bodily information of its source. I have hypothesized that if I could extract design from voice, it would lead to an ultimate made-to-measure item that could eventually open up new potential for Haute Couture.
Sustainability is a core value of your brand and you’re contributing some amazing efforts to a more environmentally friendly fashion. What are your future plans to better your sustainable practice?
My main plan and goal is to refine, sophisticate and accomplish Biosmocking technology. Biosmocking is a totally new way of garment making. Using Japanese bio start-up, Spiber’s artificial protein material, you can create and produce a garment without using needle and threads at all, and you will not waste any textile throughout the production process. Also more importantly, this is a technology to create a garment specifically for each individual, that expresses the identity of the one who wears. I think this aspect, to respect the individuality, will be essential for the concept of sustainability and SDGs going forward, and I truly believe Biosmocking has a potential in that context.
Tell us about the materials and technologies you used for this collection?
TYPE-1, which is a production system you can combine textiles without using needles and threads. Biosmocking, a cutting-edge technology, which you can create a garment from a rectangular textile, without generating any waste leveraging digital fabrication and Spiber’s artificial protein material. A unit system which I used when a presented my collection in Paris for the first time. I’ve used and combined these technologies in this collection.
What are the key looks?
I feel a combination of a male model and Biosmocking, is quite unique and new approach of styling, considering the history and context of menswear. Also a layering style of wool coat, is like Kimono but somehow modern, and I think it’s an interesting look that combines tradition and modernity.
What would you like to accomplish in the next 10 years?
To pursue and elevate what I have been doing, but at the same time to develop and establish a platform that I can provide garments to everyone.