Luxury house DIOR unveiled its Spring Summer 2023 The Craft Of Thought Couture Collection, that was inspired by the African-American singer and dancer Josephine Baker, presented on January 23rd, during the ongoing Paris Fashion Week. Baker, who left the United States in the mid 1920s and moved to Paris, embodies the modernity of those years, she was a dancer, entertainer, member of the French Resistance, civil rights activist for the African-Americans, humanist and universal benefactress. The collection reimagines 1950s style in a contemporary way. A unique set design is work of African-American artist Mickalene Thomas. The show celebrates black and mixed-race women who have become exemplary by choosing to think and act differently. Giant portraits of a series of exceptional public figures, that are elaborated with embroidery conceived by the Chanakya ateliers and Chanakya School of Craft on a printed textile base, take over the show’s setting. Stars of the portraits are Josephine Baker, Diahann Carroll, Dorothy Dandridge, Marpessa Dawn, Ophelia DeVore, Lena Horne, Eartha Kitt, Donyale Luna, Josephine Premice, Hazel Scott, Nina Simone, Naomi Sims, and Helen Williams.
“The clothes glide over the body and caress it. In silk, in velvet, often with a creased effect, a syncopated rhythm, breathing vitality into the fabric. The embroidery is delicate. Tiny silver studs and sequins occupy the space and absorb the runway lights to reflect them onto the audience. Fringes in shades of silver and gold accompany and magnify the choreography of the movements sketched by the body. The suits and coats pay tribute to the masculine fabrics dear to Monsieur Dior. The length, always above the ankle, reveals shoes with heels and imposing soles.” – from Dior
These women have broken many barriers in television, film, fashion and social activism. It is because of their determination and sacrifices that I am able to make this work and be the artist I am today – Mickalene Thomas
All artworks created by Mickalene Thomas
Embroidered by Chanakya
Noir est beau (Dorothy Dandridge)
Dorothy Dandridge
Evening Standard/Hulton Archives/Getty Image
Bettman/Getty Image
Noir est beau (Eartha Kitt)
Eartha Kitt
Kenn Duncan/© The New York Public Library/Art Resource, NY
Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images
Noir est beau (Josephine Premice)
Josephine Premice
Bettman/Getty Image (photo)
Noir est beau (Nina Simone)
Nina Simone
Hulton Archive/Getty Image
Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Image
Noir est beau (Diahann Carroll)
Diahann Carroll
Peter Basch, Bash LLC
Noir est beau (Hazel Scott)
Hazel Scott
Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Image
Johnson Publishing Company Archive. Courtesy J. Paul Getty Trust and Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture.
Made possible by the Ford Foundation, J. Paul Getty Trust, John D. and Catherine T. MacArthur Foundation, The Andrew W. Mellon Foundation, and Smithsonian Institution
Noir est beau (Donyale Luna)
Donyale Luna
Estate Charlotte March/Falckenberg Collection
Noir est beau (Marpessa Dawn)
Marpessa Dawn
Dispat Films/Tupan Filmes/Photo12
Noir est beau (Helen Williams)
Helen Williams
Noir est beau (Lena Horne)
Lena Horne
Corbis/Getty Image (photo)
Noir est beau (Naomi Sims)
Naomi Sims
Photo by Dustin Pittman
Noir est beau (Ophelia DeVore)
Ophelia Devore
Noir est beau (Joséphine Baker 1)
Joséphine Baker
Hulton Archive/Getty Image (photo)
Noir est beau (Joséphine Baker 2)
Joséphine Baker
Hulton Archive/Getty Image (photo)
Noir est beau (Joséphine Baker 3)
Joséphine Baker
Gamma-Keystone/Getty Image
