Luxury house DIOR unveiled its Fall Winter 2023.24 Haute Couture Collection on July 3rd, at the Musée Rodin, during the ongoing Paris Fashion Week. Haute couture has its own distinct sense of time, which is influenced by its rigorous processes and unparalleled craftsmanship. It exists in a precise and distinct timeframe that animates memory and imagination and pulses with a dual motion. Couture evolves in a rhythmic, almost liturgical manner, where the past intertwines with each moment of the present. In the Atelier, there are no paper patterns; instead, sketched forms seamlessly transform into dress that embrace the unique body contours of each individual.
For the Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2023.24 Collection, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri ardently pursues her ideals, refining the sartorial elements that can be described as archetypal: the tunic, the peplum, the cape, and the stole. As part of this return to sacred sources, the collaboration between Maria Grazia Chiuri and Marta Roberti, an artist whose work transforms the runway into an art gallery, is significant. “I studied the iconographies of various goddesses, who are almost always associated with animals, and I presented myself imitating their postures, initially in a performative way, copying their poses and movements with my body, incarnating their peculiarities until I made them my own.” Inspired by Marta Roberti’s words and approach to drawing goddesses, the Creative Director of Dior’s women’s lines combines dress and body seamlessly, reviving the poetic essence of couture.
As if following in the footsteps of the divinities who have governed and continue to rule the world, models follow a hierarchical order. The vertical silhouette is complemented by flat shoes. The color scheme consists of white, beige, silver, and pale gold. The structural folds beneath the chest of jackets and coats evoke classical statues and fluted columns. Pearls, symbols of purity, are interwoven with silver strands to radiate iridescence in numerous embroideries. Long skirts and dresses are adorned with shimmering fabrics reminiscent of the 1960s, which are experiencing a renaissance. Wool and cashmere are prominent, and capes reminiscent of sacrosanct garments are sometimes adorned with intricate embroidery. Especially on the sleeves of men’s jackets, pleating plays an important role.
By perpetuating the worship of goddesses and reinterpreting the foundational symbols of antiquity, the fashion show becomes a modern ritual that exemplifies the strength and fragility inherent in femininity, which underpin and sustain the community we form. By invoking the past, this collection guides us toward a vision of the future imbued with sensitivity and a meticulous attention to detail.
