Peter Do‘s latest presentation in Paris for his eponymous label marked a departure from his previous collection for Helmut Lang in New York, exuding a poetic aura that reflected a deeply personal tribute. Set against a backdrop of gentle piano melodies, the showroom showcased outfits while iPads displayed models gracefully parading in the looks. The collection was a heartfelt homage to Do’s late grandmother, who succumbed to COVID-19 a year and a half ago, prompting the designer to return to his native Vietnam and reflect on the values she instilled in him.
At the heart of the collection were matching dresses paired with pants, crafted from striking black or ivory velvet devoré adorned with rough brushstroke patterns, reminiscent of Vietnam’s national garment, the áo dài. This fusion of traditional inspiration with modern interpretation underscored the fluidity and versatility evident throughout Do’s designs.
Do’s signature multilayered aesthetic was showcased in a range of looks, from loosely buttoned shirts paired with knotted skirts over pants to convertible slipdresses with flowing sheer skirts that offered multiple styling possibilities. Oversized suit jackets with split sleeves and unexpected materials like knitted gray fabric added a contemporary twist to classic silhouettes.
For eveningwear, Do presented retro-flavored black gowns and floor-length jacquard knit dresses featuring concrete-like brushstroke motifs, reflecting his penchant for artistic expression. Despite the demands of managing multiple labels and collaborations, Do’s collection exuded a sense of composure and refinement, a testament to his ability to navigate complexity while remaining grounded in his roots and ancestral connections.
Explore the collection in the Galery below:
