Akris unveiled its Spring 2025 collection, presenting a line deeply influenced by the art of the Early Renaissance. Designer Albert Kriemler found inspiration in the works of Piero della Francesca and Andrea Mantegna, particularly Mantegna’s frescoes in the Camera degli Sposi in Mantua, Italy. The collection emerged from a collaboration earlier this year with choreographer John Neumeier on the costumes for his final ballet, “Epilogue,” where the subdued and sublime colors of della Francesca sparked a fascination with 15th-century Italian art and culture.
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The collection sought to capture the grace inherent in Mantegna’s work, focusing on light and shadow to create visual impressions of volume and depth. Designs featured elements that echoed the carved details in the frescoes—the fold of pleats, the curve of a line—introducing dimensionality and presence. “Thinking about his work, you do not think about beauty, you think about grace,” Kriemler noted. “Grace is not something close to the surface; it comes from inside. It is a gesture, an expression, an emotion.”
This artistic vision translated into garments characterized by sheer volumes and an airy feel. The runway showcased spiraled and tiered hatbands, flowing ribbons looped into bubble hems, and tailoring that was wrapped and creased. Trapezoidal shapes emerged from the fabric itself, reflecting the power of craftsmanship and the poetic work of human hands. Fabrics such as silk, panama organza, techno grid, and fine gauze cotton knitwear were used to evoke a diaphanous nature, with tulle overlays providing translucency akin to layers of paint in a fresco.
The collection balanced softness with practicality, combining elongated, fluid dresses with trenches and parkas that offered a sense of protection and sleekness suited for the outdoors. Materials like resin-coated, water-resistant linen blends, cotton, and silk poplin gave the garments a light yet functional feel. Sporty elements were introduced through double-layered tank tops, keeping the active woman in mind.
Texture played a significant role with the use of raffia, specially formulated for lightness and movement. Its texture, reminiscent of Akris’ signature horsehair fabric, created the impression of bas-relief carving. Accessories included the Alice bag, named after Akris founder Alice Kriemler-Schoch. The bag features a rectangular form with a curved top handle, crafted in calf leather with a side gusset, detachable shoulder strap, and Akris’ distinctive trapezoid detail.
By drawing from the rich artistic legacy of the Italian Renaissance, Akris’ Spring 2025 collection offered a modern interpretation of historical inspiration.
View the collection in the Gallery below:
