For the SS25 haute couture season, Schiaparelli‘s creative director Daniel Roseberry presents ICARUS, a collection that intertwines haute couture’s storied past with modernity. Inspired by a discovery of vintage ribbons from the 1920s and 1930s, Roseberry reinterprets these long-lost treasures, hidden away during the German occupation of France, into garments that embody both nostalgia. The behind-the-scenes moments of the collection’s creation were captured by photographer Kuba Dabrowski, offering an intimate glimpse into the meticulous craftsmanship at work.
Backstage Moments
Roseberry challenges the contemporary notion that modernity must mean minimalism, instead embracing opulence, complexity, and baroque influences. The collection’s palette draws directly from the antique ribbons, shades like “toast” and “mink” serve as the foundation for silhouettes that nod to the golden ages of couture. Taking cues from legendary couturiers like Madame Grès and Yves Saint Laurent, Roseberry doesn’t replicate their work but learns from their mastery, shaping a vision that balances historical grandeur with contemporary precision.
The construction of the garments showcases both technical talent and material innovation. Layered wool and cotton beneath stretched silk satin create seamless corset structures, while feathers are treated with glycerin for added weight and texture, techniques that bridge past couture craftsmanship with a futuristic sensibility. The contrast between rigid tailoring and fluid draping further underscores the collection’s exploration of time, as structured jackets reminiscent of pre-war Schiaparelli are paired with bias-cut satin skirts in a 1990s silhouette.
The ICARUS collection tells a story through fabric, embellishment, and form. Each look carries forward Schiaparelli’s house codes, incorporating motifs like the keyhole and anatomy embroidery while reinventing historical references with unexpected materials. The collection also plays with illusion, as sheer tulle dresses are adorned with trompe-l’œil embroidery and metallic details shimmer like relics of a lost era, reminding us that fashion, like history, is always in flux.
With Kuba Dabrowski’s behind-the-scenes photography documenting the process, the collection captures the essence of couture as both an art form and an act of devotion. ICARUS reaches for the sun, just as couture always has, pushing the boundaries of what is possible, while honoring the legacies that came before.
