Mithridate‘s FW25 collection marks a new chapter for the brand, merging British heritage with Chinese craftsmanship under the direction of Daniel Fletcher. In his debut collection, Fletcher explores the interplay of cultures, using intricate craftsmanship to reinterpret traditional English wardrobe staples. Saccharine pastels contrast against deep navy wools and tan leathers, while structured tailoring is softened by flowing skirts and hand-embellished details, presenting a vision that feels both refined and rebellious.
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Each look is built on familiar elements of British dress, yet Fletcher disrupts expectations by recontextualizing them for a contemporary audience. A tailored coat thrown over a drop-waist ball gown recalls the elegance of Cambridge’s summer balls, while a ladylike silhouette gains new edge when paired with a wool zip-up hoodie. The collection thrives on juxtaposition, where layering becomes less about coordination and more about challenging conventional pairings.
Texture plays a central role in crafting this layered narrative, with plush knits and supple leathers reinforcing the collection’s cinematic charm. Inspired by the worlds of Richard Curtis films, Fletcher’s designs exude a protagonist energy, each piece suggests romance, adventure, and a touch of British eccentricity. The collection also toys with perceptions of taste by drawing from the aesthetic contradictions of the ‘80s and early 2000s. Awkward pastels sit beside preppy tones, while rock-inspired prints inject an instinctual edge, pushing against traditional ideas of elegance.
Mithridate’s motifs find new expression across double-knit jumpers, vests, and shirting, reinforcing the brand’s evolving identity. Outerwear, an essential component of British dressing, is designed to meet the unpredictability of the climate. Corduroy blazers bring donnish charm, contrasting with the relaxed attitude of Harrington jackets, while sailor-style coats trimmed with blanket stitch nod to the traditions of maritime attire.
Through this collection, Fletcher presents a vision that is nostalgic in reference yet modern in execution. By dismantling singular archetypes and embracing a more fluid approach to style, he redefines the Mithridate woman as one who moves between tradition and reinvention. The collection balances structure with spontaneity, history with modernity, offering a thoughtful reworking of classic silhouettes.
As Fletcher takes the helm at Mithridate, his approach signals a shift in the brand’s direction, one that honors its Chinese roots while engaging in a distinctly British dialogue. With FW25, he delivers a collection that is rich in craftsmanship and concept.
