A unique white-gold SAS Polerouter sold for CHF 71,120 at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, attracting intense interest from collectors and marking a notable moment for the storied Swiss watchmaker Universal Genève. The sale commemorates two significant anniversaries: the 70th year since Scandinavian Airlines’ first commercial transpolar flight and the debut of the original Polerouter worn by the crew on that journey.
WATCHES
Designed in 1954 by a young Gérald Genta, the original Polerouter was developed for pilots navigating extreme magnetic and temperature conditions over the North Pole. Commissioned by SAS and built by Universal Genève, the watch quickly became an aviation icon and laid the foundation for one of the most distinctive design legacies in horology.
This new, one-off tribute model brings historical and contemporary craftsmanship together. It houses a restored Microtor movement from the 1960s inside a freshly designed 18k white gold case and bracelet, handcrafted by Laurent Jolliet, one of the few remaining chaînistes in Switzerland. The watch features twin logos, Universal Genève and SAS, rendered in the airline’s original blue, and a guilloché-patterned rehaut that adds a contemporary finish to its vintage-inspired design.
Offered directly by Universal Genève, the piece drew strong bids before reaching a hammer price of CHF 56,000. Proceeds from the sale will fund a chainmaking class at CFP Arts Geneva, led by Jolliet himself. The initiative aligns with the brand’s broader commitment to preserving traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques as it prepares for its official return in 2026 after more than four decades of dormancy.
Known historically as Le Couturier de la Montre or “the watch couturier,” Universal Genève built its reputation on elegant, atelier-born designs and mechanical innovation. The success of this auction, and the attention it has generated, offers a glimpse of what the brand may bring to a modern watch market.
Originally developed to meet the demands of long-haul aviation, the Polerouter has since become an icon of refined engineering and clean design. The sale of this anniversary edition underscores its relevance, and that of the Universal Genève name, as the brand moves closer to its relaunch.
what a stunning watch!